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Fort Stanwix July Schedule

July is perhaps the busiest month for Upstate New York tourist industry. So I do love July.

Our favorite historic site, Fort Stanwix in Rome, released their July schedule. It is so chock-full of juicy events that I thought you would appreciate knowing it, too.

July 7: There’s an evening hours Open House at the fort, from 6-8pm. Both the Marinus Willett Visitor’s Center and the fort are open.

July 10 and 11: The annual Erie Canal Bike Ride. This is a famous event; bicyclists from all around the world ride the 400-mile, 8-day trail along the historic Erie Canal. The bicyclists camp overnight at Fort Stanwix. Wow, that must be so much fun!

July 21: Fort Stanwix helps celebrate the Open House at the Steuben Memorial State Historic Site from 6 to 8pm. We have great fondness for Baron von Steuben, a general in the American Revolution. We visited his historic site and you can read more about that here.

July 26: There’s a wonderful parade at 7pm, featuring the Syracuse Symphony in concert. There will be a spectacular display of musketry and and firworks, too! In case of rain, the event is scheduled for July 27.

We go to the fort every summer, so maybe we’ll see you there!

Fort Stanwix, Rome, NY: Summer 2007

Have I ever mentioned that we absolutely adore Fort Stanwix? We’ve been there many times over the years. This is one of the greatest parks and historic sites I have ever visited, and everyone who works there is so friendly and knowledgeable. Plus, they keep updating and adding new things.

For a more detailed history of the fort, see this earlier post I’d written about the fort and the Visitors Center.

We visited in summer 2007 (we visit almost every year). This visit was relaxing and exploratory. It began with a lovely walk around the park, from the Marinus Willet Visitor Center and all around to the entrance of the fort.

On the walkways, there are large, informative plaques.

I let the kids wander wherever they desired. We are quite familiar with the grounds. Here’s an aerial view of the fort. Forts were built this way in New York State. Some forts date back to the French and Indian War, before 1754!

I love the skyline from the top of the fort’s embankments.

The boys like the bombproof– a place under the berms where stores and ammunitions are kept. It also served as a hospital during times of siege.

The girls and I like learning about life back then. Therefore, the quarters and bunk rooms interested us.

All around the fort, the rooms in the long wooden dwellings are open for exploration. They are filled with genuine and replica articles that were common for this time period and for military barracks during the Revolutionary War.

There is always something neat to play with at the fort.

At the fort, we got to sit in the theatre this time, to watch a movie. The park service has, in the past several years, produced some excellent films about the fort. We’ve seen ones on the Battle of Oriskany and another about the Oneidas’ contribution to the war. Today was another great film about life at the fort during times when fighting ceased. It portrayed a soldiers’ experiences at the fort during times of monotony between battles. We recognized many of the actors in the movie– employees of the fort who have been so informative and friendly during our visits.

We also enjoyed a instructive presentation about popular music during the fort’s heyday. The instructor was a very talented fife player and made the presentation fun!

Although our visit was briefer than other visits, we still loved seeing Fort Stanwix again! And no doubt, we will see it again this summer! Since they keep adding new things, I’m sure it will not fail to interest us. Hopefully, we can make it to a re-enactment this year!

Bagg’s Square and Old Fort Schuyler, Utica, NY

Bagg’s Square is an inconspicuous spot in the northern section of Utica, NY. It is named for Moses Baggs, a blacksmith and tavern keeper who kept a thriving business here.

Before there was Utica, there was Fort Schuyler, built in this area by the British in 1758. It was a critical spot for the new American settlers. Fort Schuyler was “a chain of forts built to protect the northern frontier from the French and their Indian allies, and to guard the great ford across the Mohawk Valley.” Fort Schuyler was named for Colonel Peter Schuyler, the uncle of the famous Phillip Schuyler (who later became Alexander Hamilton’s father-in-law). There’s a bit of confusion about the naming of the forts. During the American Revolution, Fort Stanwix in Rome (another British-built fort and was named for a British officer during the French and Indian War of the 1750s) was renamed Fort Schuyler, after Philip Schuyler. This Fort Schuyler here near Bagg’s Tavern was renamed “Old Fort Schuyler.” After the Revolutionary War, both Fort Stanwix/Fort Schuyler and Old Fort Schuyler were dismantled. When Fort Stanwix/Fort Schuyler was resurrected in the 1970s as a memorial, it was given it’s original name Fort Stanwix. Got that? There’ll be a test tomorrow… whew!

In 1794, Moses Baggs built a small but comfortable tavern near the fort, to house the many settlers and military men traveling from the eastern to western ends of New York State. George Washington and Marquis de LaFayette stayed at the tavern, as well as Henry Clay and General Ulysses Grant. It also became a stagecoach stop for mail delivery. In 1815, Moses Baggs’ tavern was torn down and replaced by a larger one made of brick. That, too, is gone. This newer stone building and park remain as a memorial to the important part Utica played as intermediary for travelers and ideals of revolution and reconstruction.

If I remember correctly, this area is where a huge revival was sparked in the 1820s, under the preaching of Charles Grandison Finney. Utica was one of the most affected cities. It was reported that all bars and houses of ill-repute were closed, because there was no business for such promiscuous living. Everyone was “getting religion” and didn’t want to sin anymore! This area was buzzing with revival that it became known as the “Burned-Over District.” Imagine, this happening in Utica, New York!

And then this plaque at the top of the tavern made us stop in our tracks. >>> Read more of ‘Bagg’s Square and Old Fort Schuyler, Utica, NY’

Marinus Willett Visitor Center, Rome, NY

On our way from Oneida, I was passing through the city of Rome to get home to Utica, and we drove by Fort Stanwix. Oh, the temptation! I was in a hurry to get home (it was getting late) but we couldn’t resist stopping. We have been to Fort Stanwix in Rome so many times. We absolutely love it. Although we had no time to see the Fort again, we did make a speedy run through the Marinus Willett Visitor Center.

>>> Read more of ‘Marinus Willett Visitor Center, Rome, NY’

History of Fort Ticonderoga

As promised, The Historian (my daughter) has penned a brief history of Fort Ticonderoga, the park we recently visited. You can snap on your fancy ventshades, ride on over to here to read about our enthralling visit, and then come on back for a little history lesson.

FORT TICONDEROGA

In America’s early decades, before the independence of the colonies from the European nations that ruled them, and then from Great Britain, it was a vast and unexplored wilderness, rich with all the resources to make the drooling monarchs of Europe desire to enrich themselves with it. New York was (is, and always has been) one of those colonies replete with abundant natural resources. It is not surprising, then, that the nations of Europe and France, perhaps the two most powerful and influential nations in Europe during the 18th century, would battle over this land, and fight a long war over it.

During the early to mid-eighteenth century, the France had claim to territory in Canada, directly adjutant to the north of New York, which was a bone of contention between the French and the British. Disputes and conflicts over New York territory and the territory of other parts of what is now the United States between England and France (of course with the Indians and the American colonists automatically caught in the crossfire) erupted into the Seven Years War; this war is now more popularly known as the French and Indian War, which lasted from 1754 to 1763.

The struggle for control of the eastern waterways of New York played an enormous part in the Seven Years War, but in order to understand this, we must understand some geography.

New York was directly in the middle of the thirteen colonies, which made up the land that the English and the French were bickering about. New York’s borders did not extend as far west as they do now, but nevertheless, the land which stretched from south of Montreal in Canada to the Atlantic Ocean (and through which land stretched a “rod” of rivers and lakes) was the eastern half of New York. At this time, it was not easy to transport goods, ammunition, and men over land through the dense and hostile wilderness of New York. Not only was travel slow and good shelter rare, but wagons and carts found it nearly impossible to make it through the dense woods and infested swamps. Travel by water, on the other hand, eliminated the disadvantages of land travel. Therefore, whoever controlled the waterways of New York controlled its commerce and military.

The eastern waterway of New York was a perfect place for ships loaded with supplies, men, horses, and cannon to be quickly transported from place to place at little cost (compared to land travel), because out of the south of Hudson Bay (north of what was then French Canada) flowed the St. Lawrence River, which ended directly at the top of northeastern New York. At this place where the St. Lawrence River ends there is (well, guess what!) a short interruption of land. Directly south of that is Lake Champlain. This lake is rather elongated, so it shaped much like a river. To the south of Lake Champlain follows a very long and complicated system of waterways, with rivers sprouting out of the lake into the interior of New York. One of the rivers that flows out of the south of Lake Champlain flows westward, and the other river that flows out of the south of the Lake flows directly south. On the intersection of the west-flowing river and Lake Champlain (this intersection makes a “v” shape) sits Fort Ticonderoga. The location of this fort was very strategically erected, for it would have full control over which ships (make that, WHOSE ships) could continue going into the southern or western interior of New York, and therefore, have access to its natural resources and a traffic way into the rest of the colonies.

It was the French who initially erected this fort (which they called “Fort Carillon” and not “Ticonderoga” — which, if you ask me, sounds Native American), in order to protect their precious possessions in Canada from the boats of the British, as well as to secure (so they thought) conquest of New York. Not surprisingly, the British tried to claim the fort during the war, in 1758, but they lost the siege. Later on during the War, the British General Amherst captured the fort, forcing the French to leave Lake Champlain. Peace was eventually signed in 1763, which secured the colony of New York in British hands (and therefore it continued to be habited by the American colonists and the Iroquois who allied with the British), and not long after, the British claimed the eastern part of Canada.

But then, as we all know, “In 1775, the Revolution came alive,” and the American colonists found themselves fighting with their own former British allies (this time, the Iroquois were caught in the middle, and they split up among themselves, some joining the patriots, and others the British). If the patriots wanted to prevent the British from sending their men and ammunitions down through New York,, and on the the rest of the colonies, than Fort Ticonderoga had to be secured for the patriots. But how?

Not quite a month after the “shot heard ’round the world” was fired, Colonel Ethan Allen, an American patriot and commander of the Green Mountain Boys sneaked up on Fort Ticonderoga before daylight on May 10, 1775. The British guards (the British were always so darn sure about themselves) outside the fort were caught by surprise, and were immediately apprehended by the Americans. Then Col Allen and his men made their silent way into the labyrinth of the fort. Ethan Allen in his Memoirs would later relate that as they were creeping through the fort that suddenly a British soldier charged at one of his officers with a bayonet. Allen, quick as a flash, drew his sword and gave the British soldier a slash on the forehead, and would have killed him, but the man begged for quarter (that is, allowance to live in exchange for being captured), which Allen granted him. “Besides,” Allen must have thought to himself, “this rascally Brit may come in handy.” Allen demanded that his new captive lead him to the quarter of the British commander of the fort. When they reached the door, Allen banged on the door, and called the commander to come out of bed (it was still dark, and the British weren’t planning on a bunch of rag-a-muffin Yankee Doodles capturing their fort). The commander came out, still in his night-gown, holding his bed robe, and perhaps rubbing the slumber out of his eyes, and wondered what this fiery Yank wanted. Allen demanded that he surrender possession of the fort immediately. “Of all the nerve!” the commander thought to himself. “Who does this rambunctious, country bumpkin Yankee think he is? I am a respectable British officer who has just been so rudely awakened from his beauty sleep and this fellow thinks he can simply knock on my door and make me surrender this fine and well-equipped fortress!” The officer wanted to know what authority this young rapscallion made his claim, to which Allen added, drawing his sword to illustrate his point, “In the name of the Great Jehovah, and of the Continental Congress!”

Maybe that “Continental Congress” part didn’t impress the officer very much, but a bathrobe in the hand (against a sword) is not nearly worth hiding in three bushes. Fort Ticonderoga was now in possession of the American patriots! For a while …

In the year 1777, the British, knowing (er, thinking) that they knew a way to end this war in their favor and end it quickly, proposed a strategy which would again utilize the geographical importance of New York, and rely upon which side owned Fort Ticonderoga. British General John Burgoyne (who was knows as “Gentleman Johnny by his soldiers) proposed a three-pronged attack on New York. He needed the assistance of General Barry St. Ledger (in Canada) and General William Howe (in New York City) to meet him (who would start from Montreal, Canada and march south) in Albany, in which city was the headquarters of the American head of the North Department, and HHIC of the Patriot forces in New York, Major-General Philip Schuyler. The adventures (and mishaps) of British Generals St. Ledger and Howe are a story of themselves. Gentleman Johnny’s, um, New York travel, shall we say, proved to be quite an adventure. He started his march southward into New York, taking full advantage of New York’s eastern waterways. His boats, loaded with his sub-officers, their wives, champagne, fine clothing, and necessities, as well as the troops and their wives and children luxuries from England, traversed over Lake Champlain, and then came to Fort Ticonderoga. This fort was nearly invincible, and the only way to take it without losing such a great amount of men and ammunition (which needed to be saved for the big siege at Albany and the rest of the conquest of America) was to find dome way to get to the top of Mount Defiance, which was the only place were the ground rose above Fort Ticonderoga. Right there, however, was a problem. Mount Defiance was called so because no one had been able to climb it, much less to mount cannon on top of it and force the Americans out of it without a fight. But that is what Burgoyne and his forces managed to do – and all in one night. The next morning, the Americans in the fort noticed the British cannons over their heads, and the American commanders decided to retreat from the fort, rather than fight to keep it, knowing that they would all be terribly killed. Burgoyne got the fort.

The capture of Fort Ticonderoga was a big point in Burgoyne’s favor in the eyes of the British, but it was also a big demerit of General Schuyler in the eyes of the Continental Congress, who were already planning on replacing him and/or General Washington with the New-Englander Horatio Gates. It would soon be too late before the Congress would realize their big mistake. But in the meantime, Burgoyne continued his triumphant march toward Albany. Little did he know that Fort Ticonderoga would benefit his cause very little out in the strange and hostile wilderness of New York. The British occupation may have caused a greater sense of urgency among the patriots in the northeastern colonies (as Lieutenant-Colonel Alexander Hamilton said would benefit the Americans and not the British), it would not aid Burgoyne and his troops against the legions of mosquitoes, hauling wagons through dense woods, starvation, disease, and cold. But, Burgoyne’s eventual failure will be discussed in its own good time — when we visit Saratoga Battlefield!

Lake George and Fort Ticonderoga, NY

In the late autumn of 2007, we drove out to the eastern edge of the state, to Lake George and Lake Champlain. I’d never been to Lake George before. I never knew how exquisitely beautiful the area is. The property taxes must be outta this world!

The drive to Lake George was lengthy. We traveled through the familiar and little towns of Herkimer, German Flatts, and Little Falls before taking the Thruway. Tolls have certainly increased. We got off at Amsterdam and drove through the heart of the city. I’ve never been through Amsterdam before; it has a rusty, rickety aura of a gilded era long gone –like many Upstate cities– but it has a seediness similar to Utica. The hilly roads added interest (and traffic congestion) to the ride. It was an interesting city and I would have liked to see more of it, but Lake George beckoned.

Up we traveled, through Ballston Spa, Saratoga, and Glens Falls. Lake George, NY, (the city) is at the southernmost tip of this very long lake. The lake itself is about 32 miles long and 2 miles wide. Huge mounds of solid stone stand up in a stiff regiment all around the lake. Clouds of russet-colored oak and feathery green fir trees cover big chunks of the mountains in a futile attempt to soften its appearance. It was probably no easy thing for these trees to grow roots and grasp onto such massive mounds of stone. Even with the lush tree coverage, huge boulders the size of school buses loomed. I’ve never seen anything like it. At one point we could drive no further and had to stop to take it all in. No wonder Lake George is nicknamed “Queen of the American Lakes.” And it has a bit of mystery and adventure, too, being the location of America’s Oldest Intact Warship. But because the sky was so overcast, my little point-and-shoot Kodak couldn’t capture the striking beauty of the landscape.

I feel ashamed, treating you so unjustly to such poor photos when the sight of the scene was so spectacular. Oh well, I have a hunch we will return next autumn, so stay tuned. I am glad we came in autumn. The mountains were simply ablaze with color and were almost aggressive in showing it off. This is turbulently rugged countryside and nothing like the sweetly singing hills of the Mohawk Valley.

We continued on to Fort Ticonderoga. We knew we were taking a chance, driving so far with the possibility of not seeing much of the beloved fort. Most tourist places in Upstate close by October 31st–a stinky policy, if you ask me. Autumn is the perfect time for travel! Anyway, it was Veteran’s Day, and I’d read that even though the inside of the museums might be closed, the visitor’s centers remain open. We discovered we were wrong on all counts. Nuts. But didn’t someone once say that half the fun is getting there? So we made do with what we had and enjoyed the journey.

Fort Ticonderoga was a very important outpost during the American Revolution (which we lost to Burgoyne, by the way). However, the history of the fort and of the area goes back much, much farther.

Because this area is between Lake Champlain and Lake George, and thus the fastest route to Albany (NY’s capital city) and New York City (NY’s biggest harbor), the group who controlled Ticonderoga usually wound up controlling New York. This fort initially controlled the trade route before the French and Indian War. It later became a strategic outpost for the wars. My daughter promised me that she would (quickly) write a short and humorous synopsis of the historical aspects of this place. I’ll post it in an update as soon as I get it.

The road to the fort (which we walked, because the road was closed with a gate) was interspersed with monuments to the many, many men who died here. Talk about a world war– there were people from so many countries who fought here!

First the area was owned by the Indians, then the French. Then, the British took it over in the French and Indian War. Fighting with the British were regiments from Scotland. Then, the American Revolution came ’round, and it was French and British at it again, this time with American, Scottish, and German troops, plus more Indians. Monuments in English, French, and Latin recorded the hundreds of men who died here. Trenches were redug for posterity to see exactly where shots were fired, blood was spilled, and men were fallen.

The walk was mighty long. Because the fort was officially closed, I hurried everyone along. I wanted to get a quick view of the fort before we were kicked out!

The fort sits elevated on a cliff. It overshadows the strategic sliver of Lake Champlain where Lake George ends, and oversees all water traffic there. Across the lake is Vermont. In the summer a ferry takes passengers across to Vermont and Mount Defiance.

As we approached the fort, sounds of construction vehicles alarmed us that we were not alone. Apparently, laborers were working this day. It looked like they were clearing brush. Whether they saw us, I do not know, but they left us undisturbed. We veered off to the other side, and I rapidly made my way to the open fort entrance. Ah, so easy! Did the French and then the British enter so easily? Ha!

We came up to a “CLOSED. NO TRESPASSING BEYOND THIS POINT” sign. My husband, law-abiding citizen that he is, hesitated. I, on the other hand, had a camera in my hand that was literally pulling me toward the entrance. I walked boldly into the entrance and peered over the top. Before my eyes about 10 feet down was a red pickup truck, its engine gurgling, and two men hauling tools into the back. They were joking and laughing, so they had missed my son’s sneeze and my loud footsteps. I shrank back from the wall and motioned for the kids to be absolutely s i l e n t. I wanted to get in at least one picture before we were tossed out, or, God forbid, arrested! This is all I got.

Sorry! How I longed to enter the fort! I almost–ohh so close it was– did. But cooler heads prevailed. We turned our way back. I snapped a quick photo of Mount Defiance– that last, unexpected bastion of British ingenuity (story to come), and we left.

I was sad. Of course, I didn’t think we’d get in the fort– being past season as it is. But a girl can hope, can’t she? The kids were disappointed, too, but they recouped soon enough. Kids will be kids and they found something to do: play American Revolution in the forest:

On our way back to the van, I snapped a photo of this beautiful little stone house by the gate. The sign said it was a private residence, but it was on the fort grounds. A caretaker’s home, perhaps?

So all in all, we didn’t get to revel in the luxuriant history of the fort, but we can at least say that we have been there. All it does is gives us a thirst to return! Fort Ticonderoga, I shall return!

We continued on after Fort Ticonderoga, to hike up Buck Mountain in Pilot Knob, NY! Stay tuned for the next post!

H. Lee White Marine Museum, Oswego, NY

It seems like yesterday, but it was in the spring of 2005 that we made our first trip out to Lake Ontario. We have since been a few times. This first trip, we strolled the shores of the lake, and visited the H. Lee White Maritime Museum in Oswego, NY.

According to the Maritime Museum website, H. Lee White was:

…born in Oswego and remembered it fondly as he moved through a career rich in accomplishment. Graduated from both Hamilton College and Cornell University, he attained the rank of commander in the U.S. Navy and became a successful attorney in New York City. In 1953-54 he served as Assistant Secretary of the Air Force in the Eisenhower administration, and later became head of two worldwide shipping companies.

This museum was established to preserve and promote the Oswego Harbor’s importance in our history, with an emphasis on ships, of course. The website says that the museum’s centerpiece is the USAT LT-5, that cute little tug that sat wantonly roped to the pier.

When we drew close, we saw that visitors were not allowed on. The ship was built for service during World War II; you can read more about the ship here.

Because we love Lake Ontario so much and found the air so refreshing, we puttered around the pier for a bit, taking in the Great Lake air. Glorious. Just look at that vast sky!

…and… hey! look at my youngest, trying to peep over the edge of the pier! GRRRR…

The museum looked small and drab on the outside, but inside it is two-storeys- packed full of interesting naval artifacts and history. I was struck by the enormous mural painted across one entire wall. It was painted by George Gray and depicts scenes from early American history here. The portrait of Pontiac is stunning. I was not allowed to use flash to snap a picture, but there are some ok-quality pictures here.

The artifacts were fascinating. We saw huge rings of chains, giant-sized spools of navy-grade rope, miniature model boats of all sorts, navigational instruments and widgets, navy stripes and badges galore, gorgeous Oswego-ish artwork, and all the little gadgets that accompany life on the lake for the last 300 years. There is even a big signal lamp–with shutters– the kind I saw in that old 1940’s Titanic movie, when the crew had desperately tried to flash Morse code to a nearby vessel.

Kids could try on uniforms, test out replica muskets, and wear the ubiquitous tricorn hat of yesteryear. Of course my kids loved it all.

My youngest, known for his penchant for finding little places, nearly flipped when he discovered a secret passageway! This facade of a jelly cabinet was a secret hiding place for travelers on the Underground Railroad.

The museum was put together well. Thumbs up from this crew!

After our excursion there, we decided to wander the city a little. Oswego has some very colorful murals alongside long buildings. The murals depict scenes of its history, or honor their brave.

Historically, there have been some very deadly house fires in the area, and I believe the idea of family life insurance sprang out of such tragedies. The murals depict those who served the community and some who lost their lives doing so.

We neared the grounds of Fort Ontario and walked down the railroad tracks. A small footpath led us down to the shore of the Lake.

Some rocks were discolored by amateur, uh, “artists” who couldn’t hold a candle to the murals on the streets.

The waves were beautiful. So wild and unpredictable but very elegant.

If you squint (or click to enlarge the photo, and squint), you can see the nuclear power plant stack in the background in the first photo, the lighthouse in the second photo, and the buildings of Fort Ontario in the third photo.

Back up to the grassy area, a more somber scene befell us. It was the graveyard of soldiers who had died while serving at Fort Ontario, dating back to the French and Indian War. A monument was erected for the “unknown soldier” there.

From here, we attempted to gain admission to Fort Ontario (something the kids had wanted to do for a while) but it was closed. Aw! I could only promise the kids that we would return as soon as possible. We actually did get to visit the lake once again, and the fort. Our visit to Fort Ontario is here, and our visit to the lake again during some blustery winter weather.

Old Stone Fort in Schoharie, NY

In the autumn of 2006, we made the lengthy drive out to beautiful Schoharie, NY, in the eastern region of New York State. Our destination: The Old Stone Fort and Museum.

The Stone Fort was originally built as a Dutch Reformed Church in 1772. The names of the parishoners are carved into the stones of the walls. In 1777, an uprising of Tories in the area caused the Patriots to build a stockade around the church. Continental soldiers were garrisoned there in 1778 and 1779. During the nasty British raids on the Mohawk Valley during this time, this fort sheltered the local residents.

After the Revolution, the fort became a church again until it was sold as an armory for the State in 1857. Twenty years later, the building was given to Schoharie County as an historic site, and the Fort opened as a museum in 1888.

And wow! This was one interesting museum! Think of something–anything– and the antique version of it was displayed! Arrowheads (billions of them), buttons, weapons, dolls, uniforms, fossils, a whale’s tooth, shoe buckles from Patriot’s boots, medals, letters, 19th century- era weaponry from the Philippines (including old war shields and spears), minerals, vehicles, tools, stuffed birds, paper, deeds, documents, badges, musical instruments, dental tools, farm tools, one of the first mechanical calculators, portraits, and much more!

Here is a list of the things I found the most intriguing:

Letter written by Joseph Brant to a Patriot friend: The writing was beautiful. Either Brant took a lot of penmanship classes or he dictated his letter to a scribe. It was amazing to see.

Deeds for tracts of land: everyday, boring documents? Not these. They did have the usual mumbo-jumbo legalese found in any deed, with the signatures following; but the interesting things were at the bottom: dark brown spots and little cartoon pictures— the “marks” of the Indians who sold their land. They “made their mark” with their own blood and then drew a cartoon of their name (like, Running Wolf and Turtle Leaf).

Money: There were miscellaneous coins and bills, but the showpiece was an original Three Dollar Note dated 1776. Another note, $5, was dated 1779. These are truly rare– money was very, very rare during the Revolution.

Butler’s Rangers Badge: The original badge from 1774 or so, given to the American Loyalists who joined Walter Butler’s motley crew of murderers. Also displayed were original weapons used during the Revolution– bayonets, muskets, pistols, knives. Needless to say, my sons loved this area.

Hair wreaths: Yep. Wreaths made of hair. Typical colors, too. The display card read that women would often save hair after brushing, and after enough had been reserved, they “combed” through the strands to organize them into similar colors. They then wound the hair around a narrow pencil-like implement, to curl the strands. Then they assembled and attached the curled hair into a circular wreath. Some were adorned with ribbons. They actually hung these things on their walls.

Maxim machine gun made in Berlin in 1918: There were lots of guns at the museum. But this one was pretty impressive– it was huge and looked fierce.

Wood from Tim Murphy’s coffin: You don’t know who Tim Murphy was?!?!?! How can you not? Actually, I didn’t either, until my brainy kids informed me that Murphy was a member of Dan Morgan’s gang. If you don’t know who Dan Morgan is, well, then, shame on you! Even I know that! You’d be speaking in a British accent if not for him. You can brush up on your American history here.

Oldest fire engine in the United States: This fire engine was constructed one year before George Washington was born. Neat!

After satiating ourselves in the Fort, we trekked across the complex to see the other buildings. They were smaller and held fewer, less interesting objects (at least, to us), but it was still very enjoyable. One building displayed antique technology: radios, microphones, stereos, televisions, etc.

A barn, one of the oldest in the state as it is from Revolutionary days, held various farm implements. A unique freedom pole and a small hay barn were outside of this building.

The Red Schoolhouse was interesting. It was a “hands-on”building. It was modeled after what a real schoolhouse would have looked like in post-Civil War days. You could sit in the small wooden desks, handle the slates, gaze at portraits of George Washington and Abe Lincoln. It was interesting. Small lesson books on each desk had examples of elementary-grade curricula.

Leafing through the curriculum example was a real treat. The mathematics section was not difficult but the language of the questions was incredibly complex when compared to our “Reader’s Digest” type of writing today. The students obviously had excellent reading comprehension skills, even at such a young age as took this elementary math.

I copied a few questions from the book:

1. How many acres of land in three fields containing 40, 15, and 25 acres, respectively?

2. For how much must I sell a horse that cost me 120 dollars to gain 25 dollars?

3. A pole is 15 feet in the air, 9 feet in the water, and 5 feet in the earth. How long is the pole?

In the back of the book were some “laws.” I am not sure if the student memorized these laws, or if these were supposed to be a help for the teacher. Read the two that I copied and note the complex language of the writing!

The Law of Readiness: When a modifiable bond is ready to act, to act gives satisfaction and not to act gives annoyance.

The Law of Effect: A modifiable bond is strengthened or weakened according to as satisfyingness or annoyances attends its exercise.

It was quite an education to peruse the schoolhouse.

I hope to go back to the Old Stone Fort, and take my husband next time. A great museum!

Fort Ontario in Oswego, NY

We had been desiring to visit Fort Ontario in Oswego, NY, for years. Finally, in the autumn of 2006, we got to see it! Oswego is a pretty city. The Oswego River slithers right through it. The city reminded me somewhat of Cooperstown, with its frilly, “It’s a Wonderful Life” charm. However, due to the river and the harbor at the lake, Oswego is much more practical and industrious than Cooperstown. Oswego is a college town with a cosmopolitan flair, but it has always had an industrial bent to it and this was very evident as we drove down the streets.

Fort Ontario sits on the southern side of Oswego, and hugs the shoreline of Lake Ontario. It’s a truly exquisite scene, with the sea of blue water at our feet and the sea of blue sky at our heads, and the green lawn glimmering below. We found a parking space and got out to explore the shoreline a little. Through a few small beaten paths, we could walk right down to the edge of the lake and explore the rocky craggs. The kids stuffed their pockets with the smooth, water-weathered rocks.

Oh, I could have stood there forever and watched the cool waves. Sailboats glided across the lake, and fishing trawler cranes dangled over the horizon. To the north, we could see the nuclear power plant stack.

(I once had someone from North Korea visit this blog post, searching for nuclear power plants in the United States. Can you believe it?!)

A small cemetery was nearby. Also of great interest was a large wooden cross, with a sign that read “In Hoc Signe Vincent.” It is similar to what Constantine saw before his great victory at the Milvian Bridge in AD 312.

After these things, we entered the fort. Fort Ontario has a very long history.

Since 1755 Fort Ontario has been rebuilt, regarrisoned, and changed hands several times. Immediately following the Civil War, Fort Ontario began a period of decreased activity and improvements and additions ceased. The fort found new life between 1903 and 1905 when the United States expanded the post as part of the army’s reorganization. By 1941 approximately 125 buildings stood at the site. Between 1944 and 1946 Fort Ontario was used as an emergency refugee center for victims of the Holocaust. In 1946 the fort was transferred to the State of New York.

Here’s a photo from Wikipedia, an aerial view of the fort:

We drew close and ventured in. There is an admission charge for entering.

Most of the buildings and grounds were set up for the Civil War period. There were an assortment of documents, uniforms, pictures, and some weaponry dating to this era. Very little referred to the Revolutionary days.

Inside most of the buildings were lots of primitive wooden tables and chairs, some Civil War-era papers and little else. Booooring.

One building was more interesting, as the ladies had lived in it and brightened the drab rooms with lively curtains and furnishings. Women do have a way of making a house nice.

I took a shot of a beautifully stenciled window blind. These are lovely, aren’t they? They must have required a ton of labor. Today, I am glad for my modern roller shades.

Here’s one of those hair wreaths I mentioned that I saw at the Old Stone Fort in Schoharie. What curious objects!

Behind one of the outbuildings, there was a narrow brick passageway that was fun to explore. If you look closely at an enlarged shot of this photo, you can see my son’s eyes glowing in the dark. The camera flash must have reflected off his retinas at the right angle. It looks so creepy!

After exploring the four outbuildings in the Fort, we thought we had finished our tour. Lo and behold, we discovered some doors in the ground. This newly found exploratory was the best part of our visit!

There was nothing down there except empty cavernous hallways and rooms. But my kids loved it. They had bought toy guns at the gift shop and found extreme fun running around and “shooting” enemies from the gun ports in the walls.

Soldiers had built these underground rooms during the Civil War days. The walls were made of very thick stone. Tiny stalactites were forming on the ceilings of some rooms. It was refreshingly cool down here. It must be heavenly here during the sweltering days of summer.

Back outside, I tried to soak as much as I could of the Lake again. Big berms surround the Fort. This makes for fantastic exploration– we ran up and down the berms and enjoyed the gorgeous views.

You could sit on the benches or the grass and just soak in the great big blue sky and drink up the great big blue water. It reminded me of that lovely hymn:

Could we with ink the ocean fill, and were the skies of parchment made;
Were every stalk on earth a quill, and every man a scribe by trade
To write the love of God above would drain the ocean dry;
Nor could the scroll contain the whole, though stretched from sky to sky.

It was a wonderful visit. The fort, for all its thrilling history, took full advantage of its location by the lake. If you go, go on a sunny day and let the great big sky knock your socks off.

Oriskany Battlefield: Bloodiest Battle of the American Revolution

Oriskany, NY, has the sad distinction of the location of the bloodiest battle of the American Revolution.

The Oriskany Battlefield State Historic Site is located on Route 69, north of the small village of Oriskany, NY. The site used to hold reenactments of the battle, although in the past we have always missed them, and I am not sure they are held anymore. I’ve seen photos and they were incredible events, with hundreds of actors posing as British, Mohawk and Oneida Indians, Loyalists, and American Patriots.

There is an Oriskany Museum approximately 4 miles south of this battlefield, also on Route 69. The Battlefield is a memorial to those who fought in the War, and the Museum is more about the U.S.S. Oriskany aircraft carrier, with some information about the American Revolution. The Museum is worth seeing. We spent a delightful hour there, and I found out some really neat things about the U.S.S. Oriskany. You can read about it here.

When you drive in to the Battlefield Memorial Site, these signs greet you.

The Battlefield site is plain and somber. The state has tried to keep it looking a lot like what it must have appeared as in 1777. When we last went in 2004, the fields were mown; today, swaths of wild grasses and weeds surround the trails that take you to key points of the battle. I don’t know if this au natural look is intentional, or due to neglect. I think it looked better when the place was trimmed. It looks too unkempt now. There’s another good site about the Battlefield here.

The site has “play-by-play” markers posted along the trail.

The now-infamous ravine is where Mohawk Indian Joseph Brant (his birth name was Thayendanegea) led the raid of British soldiers and Tories against the Patriots. Brant and his crew were a vicious bunch, leading all sorts of horrendous massacres against settlers (especially the Cherry Valley Massacre). British General John Burgoyne (hiss hiss) found great use for the Iroquois Indians. He wrote a lovely poem for us Patriots, letting us know his intentions in his “Burgoyne’s Orderly Book”:

“I will let loose the dogs of hell,
Ten thousand Indians, who shall yell
And foam and tear, and grin and roar,
And drench their moccasins in gore:
To these I’ll give full scope and play
From Ticonderog to Florida…”

…. Nice.

Anyway, the ravine is very overgrown now. We had to jump over the weeds that wanted the trail back.

The events of the battlefield unfolded the first few days of August 1777. Those summer days were typical Upstate New York days– so hot and humid that the forest literally steamed with heavy gasps of respiration. The American Patriots–led by General Nicolas Herkimer– and their noble allies, the Oneida Indians, were hurrying from Tryon County (Little Falls, NY, area) to Fort Stanwix (in what is now Rome, NY). They were coming to the aid of the fort, which was under siege by the British armies. Their march was a three-day, 40-mile slog through dense woods and swamps. By the time they reached this point in Oriskany, they were only six miles from Fort Stanwix. We could only imagine how laborious this trudge through the depths of the Mohawk Valley had been.

The tiny trail we followed led us about 50 feet down and across a small footbridge. This was the site where the Patriots stooped down to sip the cool water and wash their sweaty heads. It was at this moment, while the Americans’ backs were turned, that Brant’s crew attacked them. The Indians and Loyalists had been waiting in the woods for them.

Loyalists (also known as Tories) were Americans– they sympathized with the British and refused to join the fight for independence. Families were split apart over these political tensions. My own husband’s ancestors fought here at this battlefield, these Loyalists and Patriots. Many of the battles of Upstate New York were brothers fighting against brothers, and sons against fathers. This made the bloodshed more tragic. The Indians were not immune, either– the Iroquois Six Nations had been wrent when the tribes joined the British except for the faithful and pious Oneida tribe and the Tuscaroras. The Oneidas suffered horribly during the Revolution for their faithful alliance with the Patriots.

Patriot General Herkimer’s militia men fiercely fought the Brant crew. Herkimer was shot –mortally wounded– but continued to direct the battle from under a tree. War is truly hell. It must have been horrible. Losses were very bad– 450 of 800 Patriots and Oneidas died. 150 Loyalists and Mohawks perished. At Fort Stanwix in Rome (where these American Patriots and Oneida Indians were headed), there’s a reenactment video of this historic moment. It’s stunning, and really gives the viewer an idea of how chaotic and vicious this attack was.

A vivid painting of Herkimer at this moment, The Battle of Oriskany, by E. N. Clark, hangs upstairs in the Utica Public Library (a GREAT library; boy, I wish they got more support and funding).

The obelisk at the Battlefield honors the dead. Listed on the monument is a relative of an ancestor of my husband’s, who was the only Patriot in my husband’s old family of Tories. Brother fought against brother. (My husband’s ancestors fled to Canada after the War.) My grandmother would be rolling in her grave if she knew I married a man whose ancestors were Tories! But my husband, a Patriot now, has been redeemed ;).

It is a sober memorial.

No one actually won this battle. The Americans suffered a horrific loss, but they did prevent Brant’s men from reaching Fort Stanwix. It is a surety that if the Patriots had not staved off Brant, Fort Stanwix would have fallen to the British.

There was a large monument erected by the Daughters of the American Revolution, in honor of the Unknown Soldiers who fought and died.

General Herkimer died several days later. He died from a botched amputation of his wounded leg. At the Herkimer House Museum, his old Bible is displayed, open to Psalm 38 which he wanted to read just before his death.

Psalm 38:1 O Lord, rebuke me not in your anger,
nor discipline me in your wrath!
2 For your arrows have sunk into me,
and your hand has come down on me.

3 There is no soundness in my flesh
because of your indignation;
there is no health in my bones
because of my sin.
4 For my iniquities have gone over my head;
like a heavy burden, they are too heavy for me.

5 My wounds stink and fester
because of my foolishness,
6 I am utterly bowed down and prostrate;
all the day I go about mourning.
7 For my sides are filled with burning,
and there is no soundness in my flesh.
8 I am feeble and crushed;
I groan because of the tumult of my heart.

9 O Lord, all my longing is before you;
my sighing is not hidden from you.
10 My heart throbs; my strength fails me,
and the light of my eyes—it also has gone from me.
11 My friends and companions stand aloof from my plague,
and my nearest kin stand far off.

12 Those who seek my life lay their snares;
those who seek my hurt speak of ruin
and meditate treachery all day long.

13 But I am like a deaf man; I do not hear,
like a mute man who does not open his mouth.
14 I have become like a man who does not hear,
and in whose mouth are no rebukes.

15 But for you, O Lord, do I wait;
it is you, O Lord my God, who will answer.
16 For I said, “Only let them not rejoice over me,
who boast against me when my foot slips!”

17 For I am ready to fall,
and my pain is ever before me.
18 I confess my iniquity;
I am sorry for my sin.
19 But my foes are vigorous, they are mighty,
and many are those who hate me wrongfully.
20 Those who render me evil for good
accuse me because I follow after good.

21 Do not forsake me, O Lord!
O my God, be not far from me!
22 Make haste to help me,
O Lord, my salvation!

Herkimer’s efforts were not in vain. So although the Americans suffered tremendous loss, they did detain Brant’s group from getting to Fort Stanwix in Rome, where British General St. Leger was laying seige. Because of the failure of the British to gain ground in Fort Stanwix and in Oriskany, as well as some other typical British blunders, Burgoyne’s Three-Pronged-Attack on Albany collapsed. Burgoyne was captured in Saratoga. When the French heard of this American victory, they decided to aid our cause, and sent money, ships, and troops our way (most notably, to Yorktown). We can see the importance of this small battle today, but back then in the heat of things, it must have been hard to endure the loss. We are ever grateful that they hung on.

At the Battlefield site, we visited a small visitor’s center. The last time we visited, in 2004, the center was closed, so this was a real treat to finally go in.

This flag perked us up!

Outside the center was the coolest car I’d ever seen. A hybrid!! We quietly snuck in it for a quick photo.

It was fun to explore the area, fun to run down the trails and imagine life back then. But all the while the cloud of sobriety hangs above, reminding us that this little battle was more than just a little battle. These valiant men were fighting not for land or wealth, but for an idea: the right to live free and the right to our inalienable rights endowed by our Creator. These men weren’t blindly struggling, as so many pawns do in war (”the sport of kings”). These guys knew what they were fighting for, and they did it for posterity– for us!