The Iroquois Indian Museum is unlike any of the other places I visited. The artifacts and art displays mingled Indian culture and it’s development with the history of the Iroquois. In case you have never heard of the Iroquois, allow me to briefly introduce you. The Iroquois Nation consisted of five (then later, six) tribes of the Eastern Woodlands natives of North America: the Mohawks, Oneidas, Onondagas, Senecas, Cayugas, and later, the Tuscaroras from Carolina. These tribes make a peace agreement with each other and were allotted tracts of land stretching across the untamed wilderness of what we now know as Upstate New York– the Mohawks were the “keepers of the door” near Albany and the Senecas maintained the other end of the land.

What made the Iroquois so unique was their form of self-government. When other tribes across the land were still hunting and gathering and slaughtering buffalo and each other, the Iroquois made a pact and recorded it with wampum (a belt of beads made from seashells).

The Iroquois Indian Museum is an amalgam of modern Indian art from local artists and artifacts discovered throughout New York State. Oh, how I remember as a little girl, digging in my yard looking for arrowheads!

An old Mohawk pot, reconstructed from shards.

A modern work of art crafted from a deer antler.

This is an amazing sculpture from a moose antler!

Indian beadwork from the late 1800s. The ladies of the Iroquois nations still make such lovely beadwork. I saw many such items for sale at the New York State Fair this year.

Wampum beads. It was difficult to tell what articles were new and what were historic.

Iroquois women used to decorate their pottery just like ladies still love to do, today. The placard said that you could always tell what tribe pottery came from because the designs were unique to the groups.

The Iroquois Indian Museum has two levels. One is filled with such amazing artifacts and art work. The lower level is for kids. There’s a big turtle pond that my son loved– the turtles were rather friendly and swam up to him. Or maybe my son just has this *knack* with turtles, I don’t know. There are “hands on” activities, tables with coloring sheets, a few televisions playing Iroquois-related documentaries, and a booth for dressing up.

We did not take advantage of it due to the cold, rainy weather, but the Iroquois Indian Museum has 45 acres of wilderness trails in the back. The area is a real wilderness, with a stream, lush forests and wildlife. It’s a popular place for birdwatching, beaver watching and searching for Natty Bumpo and Uncas. Haha, kidding about that last part, although my kids are CONVINCED we’ll find them someday.

There is an admission fee to the museum, and the museum closes January 1st. It reopens in May and is open every day except Monday until November.

The Iroquois Indian Museum, Howes Cave, NY

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Howe Caverns is located on a large hill in Schoharie County, just outside Cobleskill in Howes Cave, NY. It is open year round, and the best time to see the caves is (in my opinion) in the hottest part of the year (July and August) or between Thanksgiving and New Year’s Day, when the place is decked in holiday splendor. We visited a few days after Thanksgiving Day, and were delighted with the cheerful, cozy atmosphere of the visitor’s center.

Christmas music from the 1950s and 60s brought back fond childhood memories of a simpler, happier time. The visitors center is packed with things to see and do while you wait for the next tour of the caverns to begin. There’s a little cafe and a coffeeshop with Starbucks coffee and treats. There are display cases filled with old Howe Caverns paraphernalia and nostalgia. There’s a huge gift shop filled with geode jewelry and Howe Cavern diamond conversation pieces and t-shirts and flashlights! And there are cozy chairs in which to rest.

We didn’t have to wait long for the tour. Our group consisted of approximately 20 to 25 people. Tours were moving at a rather regular pace– one large group had just ended and another was preparing to go after us. The tour guide, a “Mr. T” led us into the education room, where we watched a Disney-esque robot styled like Lester Howe tell us his story. Lester Howe, for whom the caverns is named, discovered the hole leading to the underground caves in 1842. I’ve written about the history before (see my post Great Places: Howe Caverns), so check that post for the story. It includes a good National Geographic video about the caverns, too. You can also read a rousing rendition at the Howe Caverns website.

To this day, Howe Caverns deeply draws it identity from Lester Howe’s discovery. I don’t know if it was a purposeful marketing strategy or if the story has always been part of the Caverns’ identity, but I think it’s brilliant. Not only does the story lend a “human interest” touch to the caverns, but it also gives rise to the thought “Maybe someday I will stumble upon a cave like Lester Howe did!”

As the robot gives his story, a large map of the caverns shows how extensive our subterranean journey will be. At its lowest point, the caverns sit 200 feet below ground and extend for nearly two miles. Much of the caverns are still unexplored, and the Howe Caverns company hopes to expand tours in the future.

Our group loads up into two elevators, and we drop down approximately 16 stories into the concrete-lined vestibule. This room is the only area in the caverns that has been reinforced by man. I noticed a large, round hunk of cheese hanging on the wall with a sign saying it was cave-aged. I didn’t get a photo quick enough before the tour began. I looked it up later and apparently the company sells cave-aged cheese! The cheese is apparently made by an Upstate company, Yancey’s Fancy artisan cheese. We saw their booth and tasted their delicious cheese at the Pride of New York Harvest Festival last month.

Our tour began noisily, with the loud sounds of rushing water in our ears. What great water works was creating such cacophony?!

The River Styx. A little thing. Like the ghoulish ferryman Charon of Greek mythology, the river sounds scarier than it is. It is a mere trickle of a stream, although it does rise up and rage from time to time. The tour guide informed us that the latest hurricane to chug up the eastern seaboard– Irene — caused the river to rise up near the ceiling of the caverns. It took the company about five days to clean the place up. I thought that was impressive– it took me over a week to clean up my flooded basement and yard!

Yet this tiny rivulet is responsible for carving much of the caverns. As we walk along, the river’s rushing noises die down and the stream settles down into a quiet stillness.

The caverns are lit with colored lights that provide a surreal atmosphere. I disabled my camera’s flash feature most of the time. When lit in regular light, the cave has a cold, ugly look to it.

The tour guide led us on, relating various Lester Howe stories and injecting information about the mineral content of the formations. Some of the formations are stunning, and all are caused by dripping water!

This is the Roman Cathedral Pipe Organ, so called because when you stand on one side of the pathway and hum into the stalactites, the sounds resonate through the “pipe organ” in a delightfully chilling melody.

The cavern is filled with milky-looking formations, all made from calcium carbonite, the by product of the chemical reaction between limestone and water.

This is an enormous formation, all caused by a little trickle of water!

As we delved deeper and deeper into the caverns, we neared the illustrious Lake Venus. It’s more like a pond, two to six feet deep. But it is dark and mysterious and I do wonder where Lester Howe got the courage to paddle across it the first time, not knowing where he was going and carrying only a small whale oil lamp to light the way.

The boat ride was lovely, one of the best moments of the tour. Unfortunately, it ended far too soon. The tour guide relayed to us how the rest of the cavern is undeveloped for visitors. The water from Lake Venus fall down a small waterfall beyond that chain.

We head back through the same way we came. The pathways are very comfortable to walk upon. When Lester Howe first gave his tours, visitors had to clamber over rocks, climb through muddy holes, and slog through the river. Quite a difference today.

The tour was not over yet. Mr. T led us to the caverns’ “Bridal Chamber,” a small cave with a heart on the floor. The heart is made of 6-inch thick calcium carbonate, remarkable translucent. It is here that Lester Howe’s daughter was married as a publicity stunt for the tourist operation. Since then, hundreds of couples have tied the knot in the cave. There’s a little legend that goes along with the heart– they all say that if you step on the heart, you’ll be married within a year. I can testify to this. I never made the connection until this week– but when I visited the caverns as a young lady 20+ years ago, the tour guide had told us of the legend. In a whimsical moment, my girlfriends and I giggled and raced over to step on the heart. I was married later that year. Haha!!

After the Bridal Chamber, we were led to The Winding Way, one of the finest examples of water erosion. I loved this part. What great fun it was, speeding left and right, dodging the sides of the cave! When we were done, I wanted to do it again!

See what I mean? Howe Caverns is simply spectacular, a must-see destination. And my paltry photos cannot even begin to tell the story. You must see it for yourself. The company does a remarkable job of blending history and nostalgia and geology. See the Howe Caverns website for much more.

I’d like to extend my heartfelt thanks to the Howe Caverns group and the Schoharie County Tourism Department for hosting our trip. This was the first time my kids have seen Howe Caverns, and it was a very special occasion. This is my honest and genuine opinion in exchange for our admission to Howe Caverns. I highly recommend Howe Caverns- it’s a terrific experience!

Howe Caverns
website: HoweCaverns.com
255 Discovery Drive
Howes Cave NY 12092
Phone: 518-296-8900

Our Adventure Through Howe Caverns, Cobleskill, NY

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Blue Mountain is in the central Adirondacks. Located in Hamilton County, the peak of the mountain reaches 3750 feet (1143 meters) and elevation gain from the trail head is 1559 feet. The trail is approximately 2 miles up- you can do the math to see how steep the trail is! A 35-foot fire tower with incredible views tantalizes the hiker to endure the trail for some amazing Adirondack eye candy.

The views at the top are spectacular, but for the infrequent or novice hiker, it’s a lot of work to get there. All the information regarding the trail call this a “moderate” difficulty trail, with “difficult spots” toward the top. One site even said the first mile was “easy and meandering” and others called the second half “grueling.”

Look at our photos, below. Does that look “meandering” or “grueling” to you?

Our opinion? The first 1/2 mile is not easy, but it’s not terribly difficult. The narrow trails are littered with smooth river stones and a dizzying network of large tree roots. We climbed the trail one week after two consecutive hurricanes, however, so I think the mess from the torrential rains may account for the messiness of the trail. Also, while some spots were on rather smooth ground (and there were even a few horizontal areas, much to our relief!), most of the trail climbed at a 45 degree angle up rocks, over tree roots, and across large expanses of angled rock slabs.

Sorry, that photo above is a bit blurry– but it gives you an idea of the enormous slabs of pitched rock that had to be scaled. I actually found the slabs easier to trek across than stumbling over the zillions of smooth river rocks. This photo shows the trail about 20 minutes from the summit.

The appeal of the trail is the view from the summit; there is little to interest you along the 2 miles up. This made the hike less enjoyable, as we’ve clambered up Buck Mountain in Pilot Knob, and liked the wide trail and interesting rock formations along the way. We did spot a very interesting stream. The water is an odd orange color. I suppose the stream has a high iron content, as there are iron mines in the area.

As we continued, the trail became noticeably difficult. Two older ladies (from France) bowed out as soon as they got to the #2 trail stop (there are 14 total). We saw several couples coming down, but only three besides us going up. Everyone was huffing and puffing except one gentleman who was carrying his toddler grandson. He boasted that he’s been climbing this trail for 30 years, and can make it up in less than an hour. Wow! It took us about 2 1/2 hours (but we also had our domestic cat with us). When we neared the peak, I had to stop. The incline was incredibly steep, and because I had my cat with me (we couldn’t leave her in the car), I decided to sit and wait for the group. It was a difficult decision for me because I did want to see the peak, but the incline was too dangerous to carry a cat carrier up and down again. I stopped at the #12 stop. This was my view:

As far as trail markers, I’d give the trail a “C.” These markers were small, dark red, and tacked about 10 to 15 feet high. When we tried to leave the trail to return to the parking lot, we couldn’t find our way out. Two other couples, one of them experienced hikers, saw us wandering around and decided to help, but they got lost, too. Eventually, we followed the sounds of cars on the road and finally stumbled into the lot. Again, perhaps the trail was diverted because of the rains… not sure.

All the pain and agony of the trails was superseded by the views from the summit. The kids took photos.

The fire tower is accessible.

All in all, it was definitely a memorable experience, even if we were sore for days afterward. We’ve climbed mountains and hills before but this has been our toughest venture yet. I’d say the trail rates as more “difficult” than “moderate,” even “rugged” for much of the hike. The final 1/2 mile is indeed grueling, especially if you are lugging a hefty DSLR camera and a cat carrier up, haha. Be sure to bring water. Cell phone service was extremely poor (not surprising) and my son could get no service at the summit.

Before you go on any hike in the Adirondacks, be sure to check the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation Adirondack trail information website. The site has updates of closures, emergencies, warnings, descriptions, and what to expect or include.

Sources:
Adirondack Scenic Byways: Blue Mountain & Fire Tower NYSDEC Trailhead
Adirondack Experience: Blue Mountain Fire Tower
Trails.com: Blue Mountain Trail

Climbing Blue Mountain: The NYSDEC Trail

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Sunrise, by Frederic Church

Moonrise, by Frederic Church

Many of the Hudson River School paintings depict clear scenes or illusory hints of Biblical themes and events. I love the Voyage of Life series because of the stories each painting tells, that of a man eventually finding his faith in God and the joys of heaven after a tempestuous life of sorrow. It’s simply…. beautiful.

Frederic Edwin Church was a young student of the illustrious Cole, staying with Cole’s family in Catskill, NY, and studying painting. This area of New York State bursts with inspiration, as it has been the birthplace of such legendary notables as Rip Van Winkle, Uncle Sam, and numerous other tales of fact and fiction.

Church was born in 1826 in Connecticut. Early on, his artwork showed immense talent. In 1848, he became the youngest associate of the National Academy of Design, an honor he still retains. Church married Isabel Carnes in 1860, and the couple purchased a parcel of land with magnificent views overlooking the Hudson River, the Catskill Mountains and the Taconic Hills.

CLick the photo to go to my Flickr website for a larger view.

The couple built a simple little cottage that they named “Cozy Cottage.” The structure still stands, but it is not available to tourists.

Two children were born early on to the young couple: Herbert in 1862 and Emma in 1864. Church painted two beautiful works after the birth of the children: Sunrise for Herbert and Moonrise for Emma. (See the two small images at the beginning of this post). Tragically, both children died in 1864 from diphtheria, and the parents never completely recovered from the horrible loss. Even after four more children were born to the Church family in later years, Frederic hung his Sunrise and Moonrise paintings in the family room, next to the fireplace where he often brooded and mused.

The family traveled all over the world, returning home with crates crammed with furniture and knick-knacks. Construction of a new home, perched high atop the mountain, had begun in 1867. Church designed the home himself in an eccentric mish-mash of Persian, Moorish, and Victorian styles. The home is colorful and lively. I just adore the design.

Photography is strictly forbidden in the house, so I nabbed a few photos from the Olana Historic Site website to give you an idea of the interior of the house.

The home is furnished with all the Churches’ possessions from all over the world. Church’s paintings saturate the decor. The dining room was the only room not filled with Church’s works; rather, it held dozens of paintings from other men all around the world, pigmented vignettes of his travels. I identified several Dutch masters’ works and a few Italian and German paintings, too.

The name “Olana” first appeared on a letterhead written by Isabel Church. According to the Olana website:

Scholars have linked the name to a translated volume of Strabo’s Geographica, a Christmas gift from Isabel to Frederic. Strabo’s publication describes the geography of the Roman Empire and references the city “Olane,” as one of the “treasure-storehouses” on the Araxes River, which offered a view of Mount Ararat, where Noah’s ark was said to rest. It is likely that the Churches appreciated the associations this name had their own Persian-inspired stone “fortress” situated high above the Hudson River with majestic views west to America’s promised land.

The house is lovely, simply exquisite. Our tour guide, Ellen, was filled with interesting information about the home and the Churches. I was delighted that Mark Twain often visited the home, reading portions of his works for after-dinner entertainment. The family also gave small skits or plays on the large wooden landing before the stairs, a heavy colorful tapestry serving as the “curtains” of the stage.

Colorful stencils and Persian tiles peppered the walls. I noticed that many of the door frames were stenciled with curly writing, which appeared to be Farsi (my husband spent time in Iran as a boy and introduced me to some of the culture). I asked Ellen about the meaning of the stenciled words, to which she replied, “It’s all gibberish!” There were only two places in the house that had “real” Farsi: above the door as you enter “All are welcome”; carved on the pink marble fireplace in the family room “I muse while it burns.”

The Churches lived here until the couple died in 1900. Frederic willed the property to his youngest son, who married and lived at Olana for the rest of his life. His widow remianed here until 1964, at the age of 96.

After her death, Olana narrowly escaped the auction block. The widow willed the home to a nephew, who didn’t like the house and wanted to sell all its contents at auction. A group of motivated people scrounged financial support to purchase the home. New York State pitched in, and Olana was preserved intact and deemed a state historic site. Most of the home is restored, but the children’s nursery, servant’s quarters and kitchen are not and therefore unavailable for viewing. This was a great disappointment, because I like seeing the kitchens and nurseries best of all in historic homes.

I have so much more to tell about the home and our visit, but it would fill books. The best thing I can say is go see the house for yourself. You won’t regret it. The 250-acre property also features numerous trails for hiking. Picnic tables and benches provide repose for visitors.

You can see more photos of Olana at my Flickr photo page here.

Olana State Historic Site, Hudson, NY

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Well, here are some websites to bookmark that will help you plan the best fall foliage touring times:

ILoveNY Foliage Report
This is a really great site– well organized, and has a nice “foliage” map that changes with the season, highlighting the areas in the state that are showing their colors. ILoveNY also has an excellent Autumn Driving Tours site, for ideas on where to go the get the best scenery. I’m definitely checking this out!

New York Fall Foliage
A good Adirondack site with numerous articles and suggestions for drives and hiking. Also includes some information on other states.

Fall Foliage Tours
This is more of a tourist site, with ideas and links for dining as well as driving, finding lodging, and finding links to other related travel sites.

Enjoy this glorious season!

Get Ready For Fall Foliage Touring!

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Hot off the presses and just in time for the busy migration season, the Wayne County Office of Tourism is now offering a comprehensive guide to assist professional and amateur birders find the songsters. The nine page guide book easily fits in your pocket or camera bag, and features 10 “Best Bird Locations” in Wayne County.

The back page is a map which easily directs you to each location. Some areas are directly in the Atlantic Flyway, while others are in the deep woods, where the elusive Veery Thrush hides. Bird watching is the number one hobby for outdoor lovers, and with this exciting and informative guide, you can now locate hundreds of birds in Wayne County.

The Montezuma National Wildlife Refuge is HUGE, and it’s probably the closest thing to an American “safari” if there ever is one. The guide is free. The Refuge is a MUST SEE! For your free guide contact the Wayne County Office of Tourism at 800-527-6510, or email tourism@co.wayne.ny.us.

Birding, Big Time

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My kids love the reptile area; they don’t seem to tire of it even though we’ve seen it a dozen times (or so it seems– all reptiles look alike to me).

The tigers were very active, I’d never seen them running around before. They chased each other, quibbled over the best rock to lounge on, and trotted the perimeter of the cage. These are BIG animals.

The best thing we explored was the Nature Trail, behind the large tiger cage and up the hill. It was a little muddy, but not too bad. We had on our Walking Boots, and so were well prepared!

There were animals in cages up here, that I had not known were here! There was a large pack of Mexican wolves. This one was limping. Apparently, there had been some sort of fight or a quarrel between two wolves; we’d heard a painful yelp on the way up to the cages here, and when we arrived, one wolf had some blood on its leg and was walking with its tail between its legs.

The Snow Owls eyed us as we walked past.

The view from the hill is stunning. The city of Utica lies below.

We walked back down to the zoo area, hopefully to see the sealions and some domestic critters.

The sheep seemed a little hostile. They just stared. They are always smiling, though. Ever notice?

The shaggy deer, as usual, wanted to eat.

This little guy wanted to eat my camera. Or my hand. He snapped at both.

And the seals refused to come out of the doghouse. Last year, the much-celebrated baby seal, Pedipede Jack, died. I don’t recall ever reading about the cause of death; at the time of his death, it was a mystery. Very sad. I wonder how long mama seals mourn? She looked very lonely.

The livestock barn has the friendly donkey and llama, but we were only able to get a glimpse before one of the zookeepers strolled in and announced it was Zoo closing time.

It was a very pleasant visit, especially the nature trail. I’ve got to try that again when the ground is drier!

The Utica Zoo in 2009

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So with spring finally here, we’re all breaking out the bikes again! If you are in need of a better or new bike, check out another small-town phenomena– XYZBikes.com. This is a business based in California, but what a business! It started up when John Vanhara of Torrance, California, wanted to find an inexpensive, well-built cruiser bike. He couldn’t find one. So he built one himself. He built more, and a year later, business was booming. Vaharra’s business, named XYZ Bikes, has become known for some of the classiest, best-built cruiser bikes in the nation. I love stories like this!

Check out the website– the bikes are really nice. Beach cruisers, as they are called, have thicker tires and lower handlebars; they are built for comfort, not for speed racing. They’d be perfect for the many trails and beachfront areas we have here in Upstate. XYZBikes ships across the United States and Canada. Bikes are often priced right around $100– an excellent deal considering the Big Box stores around here sell Chinese-made cheapos for $200-300. :-p Plus, if you use the coupon code 5OFFXPP, you’ll get $5 off your order. Check them out,and enjoy the biking season!

The Wheel Deal

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We’d explored some of the trails and a small stream, and finally made our way down the small gorge to the Pixley Falls. The water was thin for a waterfall, although it was pretty obvious that a lot of water had once gushed across this chasm.

The rock strata is just amazing to me. The setting is so peaceful and the sound of the water so soothing that I could have watched it for hours. 

The photos cannot express smell, though. The place smelled like dead fish. There were no fish that we could find (and we did look), but I think the smell came from stagnant water. The water, rushing down the waterfall, pooled below and didn’t really have any place to go. We were able to stroll along the creekbed where the water had, long ago, raged. Small pools of slightly green water sat at out feet.

We followed the creek for a while. It was muddy in some places. The watercourse, like so many areas in Upstate New York, is flowing across limestone. Limestone suffers severe erosion with continual water activity like this, so the streams and waterways are always “changing their minds.” The stream, which had once coursed down the falls, was changing slightly. As we walked down the creekbed, we saw more water, coming from a different stream that had formed.

We made our way back up to the top and I discovered a small path that led to the top of the falls, 50 feet above where we had just been. Good thing I’m not afraid of heights! I told the kids they had to stay back, but I ventured to the edge to snap some photos of the top of the waterfall. I thought it would be cool to have a picture of the water going down at the bottom and the top!

Here I am, looking straight down where I was looking up previously.

I stepped back and noticed all these circles at my feet.

When I stepped back, I found the neatest thing! The water coming down the upper creek (before it fell down the waterfall) has carved dozens of circles into the limestone. It was like a little fairyland of sorts, it was beautiful.

And here’s a closeup of a circle.

I found it awesome that the water formed perfect circles, sometimes perfectly concentric circles, as it flowed down the limestone and then down to the pool below. It was all sparkly and wonderful up here. I am still kind of stunned by its beauty, even now.

If you’d like to see a simple video I took of the waterfall, I posted it here.

Exploring Pixley Falls State Park

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A small stream flows through the park, part of the many-veined water network leading to the mighty Mohawk River. The stream tumbles down the steep hills, narrows in some places and widens in others. the day we visited, the waterflow was steady but rather small and unspectacular. During periods of heavy rains, I could imagine it cresting easily over the green banks.

You really need to click the image to enlarge it, in order to appreciate the absolute beauty of the place.

The kids were very happy to simply run around, follow the stream, and look for fossils. We found diatoms in several of the rocks. It is amazing to think that at one time, all this land– even the Adirondacks themselves– were once under water.

There are little rocks. And there are big rocks. REALLY big rocks.

After exploring the little stream and some of the trails (and the restrooms), we made our way down the hill to see the actual waterfalls. The descent was rather steep.

It was a wonderfully invigorating walk! I was surprised to see so many people down by the water. A small group of about 20 Amish women were chatting by the water, and a few couples had small children. One lady even had a tiny dog she was carrying around.

When we got to the bottom of the incline, the full 50-foot view of the falls came into sight. It was lovely.

I’ll save the rest of the story for another post, including my little exploratory walk to the top edge of the waterfalls. That was fun!

Pixley Falls, Boonville, NY

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