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Bagg’s Square and Old Fort Schuyler, Utica, NY

Bagg’s Square is an inconspicuous spot in the northern section of Utica, NY. It is named for Moses Baggs, a blacksmith and tavern keeper who kept a thriving business here.

Before there was Utica, there was Fort Schuyler, built in this area by the British in 1758. It was a critical spot for the new American settlers. Fort Schuyler was “a chain of forts built to protect the northern frontier from the French and their Indian allies, and to guard the great ford across the Mohawk Valley.” Fort Schuyler was named for Colonel Peter Schuyler, the uncle of the famous Phillip Schuyler (who later became Alexander Hamilton’s father-in-law). There’s a bit of confusion about the naming of the forts. During the American Revolution, Fort Stanwix in Rome (another British-built fort and was named for a British officer during the French and Indian War of the 1750s) was renamed Fort Schuyler, after Philip Schuyler. This Fort Schuyler here near Bagg’s Tavern was renamed “Old Fort Schuyler.” After the Revolutionary War, both Fort Stanwix/Fort Schuyler and Old Fort Schuyler were dismantled. When Fort Stanwix/Fort Schuyler was resurrected in the 1970s as a memorial, it was given it’s original name Fort Stanwix. Got that? There’ll be a test tomorrow… whew!

In 1794, Moses Baggs built a small but comfortable tavern near the fort, to house the many settlers and military men traveling from the eastern to western ends of New York State. George Washington and Marquis de LaFayette stayed at the tavern, as well as Henry Clay and General Ulysses Grant. It also became a stagecoach stop for mail delivery. In 1815, Moses Baggs’ tavern was torn down and replaced by a larger one made of brick. That, too, is gone. This newer stone building and park remain as a memorial to the important part Utica played as intermediary for travelers and ideals of revolution and reconstruction.

If I remember correctly, this area is where a huge revival was sparked in the 1820s, under the preaching of Charles Grandison Finney. Utica was one of the most affected cities. It was reported that all bars and houses of ill-repute were closed, because there was no business for such promiscuous living. Everyone was “getting religion” and didn’t want to sin anymore! This area was buzzing with revival that it became known as the “Burned-Over District.” Imagine, this happening in Utica, New York!

And then this plaque at the top of the tavern made us stop in our tracks. >>> Read more of ‘Bagg’s Square and Old Fort Schuyler, Utica, NY’

Utica Lunatic Asylum

It’s called the “Old Main” and I did a huge post on it’s history, it’s most famous patient, and some stunning interior photos, in January. Today, the kids and I were visiting the Children’s Museum in downtown Utica (more on that later), and took a drive to York Street to see the Old Main.

The columns to the building are utterly tremendous. Who needs to see the Parthenon when you’ve got this? Their size is awesome. This building is famous for being the finest example of Greek Revival architecture in the world. >>> Read more of ‘Utica Lunatic Asylum’

A Trip To Cooperstown, NY

This post is about a recent visit we took to Cooperstown, NY. It was years ago (well, more like decades ago!) I used to visit the town frequently with my husband, when we lived in the area as newlyweds. Some of the children had never been here, so I wanted to take them to see quintessential small-town America.

We considered going to the Farmer’s Museum to see the Cardiff Giant, and I wanted to go to the Fenimore Art Museum, but we didn’t. The kids weren’t really up to interacting with crowds, and my youngest rolled his eyes when I suggested going to another museum. However, the Farmer’s Museum is open April 1st with reduced rates, so here’s hoping we go then.

Cooperstown was packed. We drove up and down the streets looking for a place to park. we finally found an empty spot in the marina’s parking lot. We walked to the Lakefront Park and got a look at Otsego Lake.

>>> Read more of ‘A Trip To Cooperstown, NY’

Fountain Elms Historic Site, Utica

Over the summer of 2007, we visited Utica, NY, to have a look at Fountain Elms on Genesee Street. The Munson-Williams-Proctor Institute was also having their July Arts Festival. Fountain Elms is a lovely Victorian Italianate home built by a prominent Utica family. It is listed on the National Register of Historic Houses. The MWP Institute beside it was designed by architect Phillip Johnson.

We’ve been through Fountain Elms several times in the past, I just never had my camera with me. Yet even with my camera, the home’s rooms were far too dark for any quality photos my WalMart special could snap. Better interior pictures are found here and here. Strikeslip from Faultlines has a lovely
Fountain Elms photo in his online portfolio, here.

Fountain Elms is now a misnomer. There are no more elms. Once, streets of America were lined with these arching giants. The beautiful elm tree, nutured here in the Northeast for hundreds of years, fell to Dutch elm disease in the 50s. A tiny Asian beetle with a fungus devastated one of our most beautiful trees, and laid waste our towns’ streets.

An old newspaper clipping from the 40s that I own has a photograph of one of the largest elm trees in town, on the property I own. The trunk’s diameter was over 7 feet wide. A girl, her bicycle, and her young brother are dwarfed by the massive tree. All that remains of the tree is it’s mossy footprint in my front yard where it once stood.Fountain Elms of Utica lost its elm trees, too. Valiant efforts have been made to plant locust and ash trees around the property.

Fountain Elms was the dwelling of one of the most wealthy and philanthropic families of Utica. It was purchased by James and Helen (Munson) Williams for their daughter, Maria, as a wedding gift for her marriage to Thomas Proctor. Helen’s sister Rachel and her husband Frederick Proctor (Thomas’ half-brother) lived in a house next door, but that house is demolished now. A museum, the Munson-Williams-Proctor Institute is built adjoining Fountain Elms. A glass walkway connects the two buildings.

The museum houses one of my favorite works of art, Thomas Cole’s “Voyage of Life” series. Unfortunately, the museum now has a more modernistic bent in its art, and, IMHO, the museum is a warehouse of mostly clunky and indecent projects. Surely there remain some beautiful and uplifting works of elegance, but I am dissatisfied with what is has become, overall.

Displayed outside during the Art Festival, we saw some lovely paintings and photographs. I especially liked this watercolor:

and this acrylic:

Fountain Elms houses some beautiful pieces that were part of the Proctors’ collections. The two ladies and their husbands traveled abroad extensively, and amassed a large collection– enough to fill a, well, a museum! Here’s a sweet painting of Rachel and Maria when they were young:

The Proctor men had a nice watch collection, too. The trinkets and knick-knacks are truly exquisite. This website has an informative essay on the watch collection and more on the history of the family.

The furniture of the house is breath-takingly beautiful. No indeed, they don’t make things like these anymore!

A display of handmade quilts had me wowed. Imagine sewing these by hand! I loved the indigo colors of this one:

The museum has a lovely backyard, replete with park benches, trees, and quaint outbuildings (which are now academies for the museum’s art students). The portico of Fountain Elms is lovely. I can see the Victorian ladies in their swishing bustles, sipping tea in the afternoon shade.

Most of the house seemed historically accurate, except I did wonder if the window awnings were a modern inclusion, perhaps to keep the destructive sun rays off the artifacts. in the olden days, people used things like blinds and exterior shutters. I was also fascinated by the architectural features of the skinny chimney.

The Proctors saved the city during times of financial panic. They also donated some of their property for the Utica Public Library, one of my favorite libraries (for it has a terrific collection). Fountain Elms is well worth seeing. We like it because it is free, nearby, and has a little bit of something for everyone. No doubt we will return again!

Oneida Community Mansion House, Sherrill, NY

I had been through the Mansion House years ago. This time I took my kids to see it’s grand architecture and give them first-hand history of this area. It was quite the lesson in architecture, religion, and history.

The Oneida Community, established in 1848 by Vermont-native John Humphrey Noyes, was a religious commune. It was a highly controversial commune for its time. In a nutshell, Noyes believed in complete communalism, to such extreme that the family unit (marriages and parent-child relationships) was broken down and “shared.” The group was banned from many Upstate cities– members were even run out of the city of Utica in a near-riot– for “corrupting public morals.”

I had become greatly interested in the history of the Oneida Community after discovering and reading A Yankee Saint: John Humphrey Noyes and the Oneida Community by Robert A. Parker, years ago. Still curious, I had read Pierrepont Noyes’ My Father’s House: an Oneida Boyhood. The two books presented two vastly different views of this so-called utopian society. The book on John Noyes, founder the Community and father of Pierrepont, cast a glowing light on the Oneida Community. Pierrepont’s book was quite the opposite. It was written from the viewpoint of the child, forcibly bereft of maternal love and raised as cattle in an experiment hailed by leaders around the world (and socialists like H.G. Wells and Arthur Conan Doyle).

Pierrepont’s is quite the book about the dark side of socialism, particularly hard for the more vulnerable members of the group (i.e., young women and children). Needless to say, when John Noyes died, the Community fell apart. The children of “stirpiculture” had no desire to continue the eugenic socialist experiment of their fathers.

Pierrepont, the “black sheep” of the community, grew up to rescue the family’s business and made it into the world-renowned Oneida flatware company that we know today. I understand that Pierrepont Noyes was a generous CEO, giving his employees fair pay for fair work (compared to the other misers of that era), offering no-interest loans for employees to buy houses, and hosting company picnics and outings. The area of Sherrill and Oneida are quite prosperous to this day. Streets are clean and houses are beautiful. There remains a sense of community and cleanliness in these small towns.

Although the Community was a bit nutty when it came to Biblical doctrine, there is something to be said for their Yankee ingenuity and work ethic. They built an entire culture upon these acres of former Indian land. I was especially awed by the grand style of architecture.

The house is Empire style, which was popular in the mid-1800’s. The French mansard roof sets it off nicely. The slate shingles, if you can see them in the picture below (or click the picture for a larger photo), are different colors and set in pleasing patterns. The detail of the work is most admirable. Apparently, the Community members did all the work themselves. John Noyes routinely sent out his young men to places like Italy, to learn the art of fresco and sculpting for example, and the young men would return to apply what they had learned at the Community.

A lovely courtyard is at the back of the complex. The cafeteria-like dining hall and kitchen are back here, separate from the living quarters.

Each member of the Community had his or her own small room, similar to a dormitory room like colleges have today. A large shared living room, dining room, and a two-story theatre-room (where they often held recitals and plays for their entertainment) are in the main complex. Pierrepont Noyes recalled in his book that as a child, he never noticed the uniqueness of a kitchen built separately from the living quarters of a house. (Although, this is common in the south and southwest of the country, where the problem of cold weather doesn’t affect it as much). It was only as an adult, when he began visiting with others in the town (the “Gentiles” as the Community called the townsfolk), that he entered a house and was bombarded with the stale smells of cooking from the kitchen off the parlor room. I don’t know why I so particularly remember this part of the book. Perhaps it is because I don’t like kitchen smells in any room besides the kitchen.

At any rate, the kids and I wandered the grounds around the house, and I continued to give them some brief history of the Community.

Here’s a door into the lower part of the house. I love doors like this (under a porch). It looks so adventurous and secretive!

Here’s the front door, the front hall, and a snapshot of the interior.

The Mansion House offers tours of the complex (I had been through once before so I didn’t do it this time). Visitors can see the Jesse Kinsley Braiding Room for free, though, so we went into that.

Jesse Kinsley was raised in the Community. She was a gifted craftswoman, and created beautiful rugs, wall coverings, and linens. Some of these creations and some of her furniture is on display.

The Mansion House is now a high-end apartment building. It is nice to see that the place is being kept up and still has the lovely herb garden in the front yard.

If you’d like to learn more, check out AroundCNY. They have some good information.

Erie Canal Museum in Syracuse, NY, Part Two

See Part One of our visit to the Erie Canal Museum in Syracuse. This is Part Two.

After pulling the children off the packet boat and into the Museum, we wandered around the halls. There was a great deal to see and explore, and I wanted to soak it all in. From the packet boat display, we entered into the original 1850 building. I was overcome by the architectural beauty of the building.

The ceilings and walls were covered with elaborate pressed metal from the 1850s (I have some of it in my own house, still). There were several layers of paint covering it, which gave it a soft appearance. I’d never seen walls done this way. The trim was in wood. The lighting looked original, too; I later saw a photo of NYS engineers’ office from the 40s, and the lights were the same. Imagine– a canal weighlock building designed so beautifully! It’s funny, how such elegant buildings were built for such mundane or totally pragmatic functions. I’d recently seen photos of the Utica Psychiatric Building, which is the greatest example of Greek Revival architecture, but was built as a mental hospital and later became a place for alcohol and drug rehab. Amazing.

We wandered around a few rooms and enjoyed displays of everything from packet boat models to artifacts to office reproductions.

I was thrilled to see an entire section devoted to Elizabeth Cotten. How I used to love singing her old songs! I didn’t know she was from Syracuse until I moved away. Her song, “Freight Train,” was one of my favorites as a kid.

Libba Cotten’s Grammy and her SAMMY award were on display, too. There were displays about Syracuse’s salt mines, shoe manufacturing, and the lovely Syracuse China.

As if all this wasn’t enough, there was another floor to the Museum. We enjoyed our elevator ride up.

We entered the second-floor into a number of life-sized displays from the Erie Canal days, including a tavern, a general store, and a theatre stage. Elsewhere on the floor are an exhibition called “The Art of the Draughtsman” which featured original drawings of the Canal plans, and photographs. And there was a huge dress-up area with children’s tables, books, toys, bean bags, and puppets and a puppet stage. Needless to say, the kids LOVED every second of it.

I saw another hair wreath! I’d first seen one when we visited the Old Stone Fort in Schoharie. What weird things! This one was very intricate.

A curio cabinet displayed beautiful dishes. We found one with Utica on it!

The Utica plate information had me stunned. I never knew Utica was once “inferior to none in the western section of the state”! This is proof that Utica was thriving before the Italian mafia took over! Ha!

The kids had a blast in the children’s area, even the teenagers.

We had an absolutely wonderful time! I’m glad we decided to go!

Old Stone Fort in Schoharie, NY

In the autumn of 2006, we made the lengthy drive out to beautiful Schoharie, NY, in the eastern region of New York State. Our destination: The Old Stone Fort and Museum.

The Stone Fort was originally built as a Dutch Reformed Church in 1772. The names of the parishoners are carved into the stones of the walls. In 1777, an uprising of Tories in the area caused the Patriots to build a stockade around the church. Continental soldiers were garrisoned there in 1778 and 1779. During the nasty British raids on the Mohawk Valley during this time, this fort sheltered the local residents.

After the Revolution, the fort became a church again until it was sold as an armory for the State in 1857. Twenty years later, the building was given to Schoharie County as an historic site, and the Fort opened as a museum in 1888.

And wow! This was one interesting museum! Think of something–anything– and the antique version of it was displayed! Arrowheads (billions of them), buttons, weapons, dolls, uniforms, fossils, a whale’s tooth, shoe buckles from Patriot’s boots, medals, letters, 19th century- era weaponry from the Philippines (including old war shields and spears), minerals, vehicles, tools, stuffed birds, paper, deeds, documents, badges, musical instruments, dental tools, farm tools, one of the first mechanical calculators, portraits, and much more!

Here is a list of the things I found the most intriguing:

Letter written by Joseph Brant to a Patriot friend: The writing was beautiful. Either Brant took a lot of penmanship classes or he dictated his letter to a scribe. It was amazing to see.

Deeds for tracts of land: everyday, boring documents? Not these. They did have the usual mumbo-jumbo legalese found in any deed, with the signatures following; but the interesting things were at the bottom: dark brown spots and little cartoon pictures— the “marks” of the Indians who sold their land. They “made their mark” with their own blood and then drew a cartoon of their name (like, Running Wolf and Turtle Leaf).

Money: There were miscellaneous coins and bills, but the showpiece was an original Three Dollar Note dated 1776. Another note, $5, was dated 1779. These are truly rare– money was very, very rare during the Revolution.

Butler’s Rangers Badge: The original badge from 1774 or so, given to the American Loyalists who joined Walter Butler’s motley crew of murderers. Also displayed were original weapons used during the Revolution– bayonets, muskets, pistols, knives. Needless to say, my sons loved this area.

Hair wreaths: Yep. Wreaths made of hair. Typical colors, too. The display card read that women would often save hair after brushing, and after enough had been reserved, they “combed” through the strands to organize them into similar colors. They then wound the hair around a narrow pencil-like implement, to curl the strands. Then they assembled and attached the curled hair into a circular wreath. Some were adorned with ribbons. They actually hung these things on their walls.

Maxim machine gun made in Berlin in 1918: There were lots of guns at the museum. But this one was pretty impressive– it was huge and looked fierce.

Wood from Tim Murphy’s coffin: You don’t know who Tim Murphy was?!?!?! How can you not? Actually, I didn’t either, until my brainy kids informed me that Murphy was a member of Dan Morgan’s gang. If you don’t know who Dan Morgan is, well, then, shame on you! Even I know that! You’d be speaking in a British accent if not for him. You can brush up on your American history here.

Oldest fire engine in the United States: This fire engine was constructed one year before George Washington was born. Neat!

After satiating ourselves in the Fort, we trekked across the complex to see the other buildings. They were smaller and held fewer, less interesting objects (at least, to us), but it was still very enjoyable. One building displayed antique technology: radios, microphones, stereos, televisions, etc.

A barn, one of the oldest in the state as it is from Revolutionary days, held various farm implements. A unique freedom pole and a small hay barn were outside of this building.

The Red Schoolhouse was interesting. It was a “hands-on”building. It was modeled after what a real schoolhouse would have looked like in post-Civil War days. You could sit in the small wooden desks, handle the slates, gaze at portraits of George Washington and Abe Lincoln. It was interesting. Small lesson books on each desk had examples of elementary-grade curricula.

Leafing through the curriculum example was a real treat. The mathematics section was not difficult but the language of the questions was incredibly complex when compared to our “Reader’s Digest” type of writing today. The students obviously had excellent reading comprehension skills, even at such a young age as took this elementary math.

I copied a few questions from the book:

1. How many acres of land in three fields containing 40, 15, and 25 acres, respectively?

2. For how much must I sell a horse that cost me 120 dollars to gain 25 dollars?

3. A pole is 15 feet in the air, 9 feet in the water, and 5 feet in the earth. How long is the pole?

In the back of the book were some “laws.” I am not sure if the student memorized these laws, or if these were supposed to be a help for the teacher. Read the two that I copied and note the complex language of the writing!

The Law of Readiness: When a modifiable bond is ready to act, to act gives satisfaction and not to act gives annoyance.

The Law of Effect: A modifiable bond is strengthened or weakened according to as satisfyingness or annoyances attends its exercise.

It was quite an education to peruse the schoolhouse.

I hope to go back to the Old Stone Fort, and take my husband next time. A great museum!

Lorenzo Historic Site, Cazenovia, NY

July 24, 2006

Lorenzo is the name of a big old Dutch patroon mansion in Cazenovia, NY. Legend has it that the house was named for an Italian artist. I think the builder, John Lincklaen of Holland, was enamored with Italians. The house and its contents have a definite Italian flavor.

The house was built in 1807. It remains in incredible shape. All the furnishings were donated to the State by the family. Even the daily weather journal was given. The book rested on an antique desk, open to today in 1888 (it was recorded as 78 degrees F on this day in 1888– presently, we were sweltering at 87 degrees).

Admission for touring the mansion was $5 for an adult, $4 for a student, and children under 12 were free. Roaming the grounds and the carriage house (which holds a mini museum and a cool collection of original carriages and sleighs) was free.

We took advantage of the tour and got first-class treatment from the tour guide. Unfortunately, photographing the interior of Lorenzo was verboten, so I am pictureless. Sorry. We had a lively chat with the tour guide about the history of the site and about some of the artifacts on display. It was an excellent experience.

After our tour, we wandered the grounds. There is a great view of Cazenovia Lake from the front of the mansion. Originally, the property extended all the way to the lake shore, but today, Route 13 cuts across the front yard.

I really liked the gardens. I think the kids could have spent all day running around the paths and hiding under the looming pine trees. There was so much to explore! Little nooks and “secret” gardens were peppered across the grounds.

A sundial, a fountain, and stone horse trough added that “English cottage” atmosphere.

The flowers were all in bloom, too. It was beautiful.

The Lincklaens never had any children. Such a large house with fanciful gardens, and no children to fill it! They adopted a nephew who inherited the house, and he later had one child, a daughter. She grew up, but remained childless, too. The house was granted to the State in 1967. All the family’s furnishings, art, personal possessions (even clothing!), and everything else you can imagine, was granted with the house. To tour the house is like stepping back in time. I love living museums like that.