Happy Birthday, Fort Stanwix!

Oh, how we love Fort Stanwix!

Fort Stanwix, in Rome, NY, was built during the French and Indian War, to provide protection for “The Carry.” The Carry was a trail on dry ground between the popular waterways, Wood Creek and the Mohawk River. It was so named because settlers and traders had to hop out of their boats when they reached the end of one waterway and carry their boat and goods to the next waterway. The fort was built by the British, back when we were a British colony. It was named after British General John Stanwix. Americans renamed it Fort Schuyler, after the popular General Phillip Schuyler (who was Alexander Hamilton’s father-in-law, by the way). General Schuyler already had a number of forts named after him (including one in Utica), so the name was dropped and everyone called the place Fort Stanwix.

Legend has it that the first real flag of the United States of America was flown here.

‘

Fort Stanwix was one of the targets of the British “three pronged attack” during the Revolutionary War. The British planned to invade and conquer Albany, NY, our state capital. In doing so, the British would slit the 13 Colonies in half: the plan was a brilliantly devised one of divide and conquer.

Through the hand of Divine Providence, the British plans went awry. The British army led by General St. Leger coming from the west were stifled at Fort Stanwix. The British army led by General Burgoyne was sabatoged and captured in Saratoga, NY. And the British army led by General Howe that was supposed to come up from Philadelphia from the south never even got started. New York proved much more resistant than the British thought– after this event, the French joined the Americans and the British scampered down to the Southern Colonies to try to conquer there. You can read more about the three-pronged attack in what is considered the “bloodiest battle of the American Revolution” here.

After the war, the fort was abandoned. It fell into disrepair, and the city of Rome was built over it. A revival of interest in our historic heritage spurned the interest of people in the city. The Fort was declared a national historic park in 1935. The site was excavated and rebuilt in 1976, America’s Bicentennial Year.

This weekend, Fort Stanwix is celebrating her 75th birthday, with parades, reenactments, music, and more. This is one of the BEST national parks we have ever visited. We try to go every year or so. Unfortunately, I will miss my visit this year; we are renovating our home and are on a tight deadline. If you want to visit, see the official Fort Stanwix website, or call 315-338-7730.

Happy birthday, Fort Stanwix! You are an example of the tenacity and faith of our golden founding era.

Oriskany Battlefield: Bloodiest Battle of the American Revolution

We have visited the Oriskany Battlefield several times. Unfortunately, this park is slated for closure by New York State, due to the state’s financial mismanagement troubles. I’m glad I took so many photos when we last visited. I hope you enjoy our visit.

Oriskany, NY, has the sad distinction of the location of the bloodiest battle of the American Revolution.

The Oriskany Battlefield State Historic Site is located on Route 69, north of the small village of Oriskany, NY. The site used to hold reenactments of the battle, although in the past we have always missed them, and I am not sure they are held anymore. I’ve seen photos and they were incredible events, with hundreds of actors posing as British, Mohawk and Oneida Indians, Loyalists, and American Patriots.

There is an Oriskany Museum approximately 4 miles south of this battlefield, also on Route 69. The Battlefield is a memorial to those who fought in the War, and the Museum is more about the U.S.S. Oriskany aircraft carrier, with some information about the American Revolution. The Museum is worth seeing. We spent a delightful hour there, and I found out some really neat things about the U.S.S. Oriskany. You can read about it here.

When you drive in to the Battlefield Memorial Site, these signs greet you.

The Battlefield site is plain and somber. The state has tried to keep it looking a lot like what it must have appeared as in 1777. When we last went in 2004, the fields were mown; today, swaths of wild grasses and weeds surround the trails that take you to key points of the battle. I don’t know if this au natural look is intentional, or due to neglect. I think it looked better when the place was trimmed. It looks too unkempt now. There’s another good site about the Battlefield here.

The site has “play-by-play” markers posted along the trail.

The now-infamous ravine is where Mohawk Indian Joseph Brant (his birth name was Thayendanegea) led the raid of British soldiers and Tories against the Patriots. Brant and his crew were a vicious bunch, leading all sorts of horrendous massacres against settlers (especially the Cherry Valley Massacre). British General John Burgoyne (hiss hiss) found great use for the Iroquois Indians. He wrote a lovely poem for us Patriots, letting us know his intentions in his “Burgoyne’s Orderly Book”:

“I will let loose the dogs of hell,
Ten thousand Indians, who shall yell
And foam and tear, and grin and roar,
And drench their moccasins in gore:
To these I’ll give full scope and play
From Ticonderog to Florida…”

…. Nice.

Anyway, the ravine is very overgrown now. We had to jump over the weeds that wanted the trail back.

The events of the battlefield unfolded the first few days of August 1777. Those summer days were typical Upstate New York days– so hot and humid that the forest literally steamed with heavy gasps of respiration. The American Patriots–led by General Nicolas Herkimer– and their noble allies, the Oneida Indians, were hurrying from Tryon County (Little Falls, NY, area) to Fort Stanwix (in what is now Rome, NY). They were coming to the aid of the fort, which was under siege by the British armies. Their march was a three-day, 40-mile slog through dense woods and swamps. By the time they reached this point in Oriskany, they were only six miles from Fort Stanwix. We could only imagine how laborious this trudge through the depths of the Mohawk Valley had been.

The tiny trail we followed led us about 50 feet down and across a small footbridge. This was the site where the Patriots stooped down to sip the cool water and wash their sweaty heads. It was at this moment, while the Americans’ backs were turned, that Brant’s crew attacked them. The Indians and Loyalists had been waiting in the woods for them.

Loyalists (also known as Tories) were Americans– they sympathized with the British and refused to join the fight for independence. Families were split apart over these political tensions. My own husband’s ancestors fought here at this battlefield, these Loyalists and Patriots. Many of the battles of Upstate New York were brothers fighting against brothers, and sons against fathers. This made the bloodshed more tragic. The Indians were not immune, either– the Iroquois Six Nations had been wrent when the tribes joined the British except for the faithful and pious Oneida tribe and the Tuscaroras. The Oneidas suffered horribly during the Revolution for their faithful alliance with the Patriots.

Patriot General Herkimer’s militia men fiercely fought the Brant crew. Herkimer was shot –mortally wounded– but continued to direct the battle from under a tree. War is truly hell. It must have been horrible. Losses were very bad– 450 of 800 Patriots and Oneidas died. 150 Loyalists and Mohawks perished. At Fort Stanwix in Rome (where these American Patriots and Oneida Indians were headed), there’s a reenactment video of this historic moment. It’s stunning, and really gives the viewer an idea of how chaotic and vicious this attack was.

A vivid painting of Herkimer at this moment, The Battle of Oriskany, by E. N. Clark, hangs upstairs in the Utica Public Library (a GREAT library; boy, I wish they got more support and funding).

The obelisk at the Battlefield honors the dead. Listed on the monument is a relative of an ancestor of my husband’s, who was the only Patriot in my husband’s old family of Tories. Brother fought against brother. (My husband’s ancestors fled to Canada after the War.) My grandmother would be rolling in her grave if she knew I married a man whose ancestors were Tories! But my husband, a Patriot now, has been redeemed .

It is a sober memorial.

No one actually won this battle. The Americans suffered a horrific loss, but they did prevent Brant’s men from reaching Fort Stanwix. It is a surety that if the Patriots had not staved off Brant, Fort Stanwix would have fallen to the British.

There was a large monument erected by the Daughters of the American Revolution, in honor of the Unknown Soldiers who fought and died.

General Herkimer died several days later. He died from a botched amputation of his wounded leg. At the Herkimer House Museum, his old Bible is displayed, open to Psalm 38 which he wanted to read just before his death.

Psalm 38:1 O Lord, rebuke me not in your anger,
nor discipline me in your wrath!
2 For your arrows have sunk into me,
and your hand has come down on me.

3 There is no soundness in my flesh
because of your indignation;
there is no health in my bones
because of my sin.
4 For my iniquities have gone over my head;
like a heavy burden, they are too heavy for me.

5 My wounds stink and fester
because of my foolishness,
6 I am utterly bowed down and prostrate;
all the day I go about mourning.
7 For my sides are filled with burning,
and there is no soundness in my flesh.
8 I am feeble and crushed;
I groan because of the tumult of my heart.

9 O Lord, all my longing is before you;
my sighing is not hidden from you.
10 My heart throbs; my strength fails me,
and the light of my eyes—it also has gone from me.
11 My friends and companions stand aloof from my plague,
and my nearest kin stand far off.

12 Those who seek my life lay their snares;
those who seek my hurt speak of ruin
and meditate treachery all day long.

13 But I am like a deaf man; I do not hear,
like a mute man who does not open his mouth.
14 I have become like a man who does not hear,
and in whose mouth are no rebukes.

15 But for you, O Lord, do I wait;
it is you, O Lord my God, who will answer.
16 For I said, “Only let them not rejoice over me,
who boast against me when my foot slips!”

17 For I am ready to fall,
and my pain is ever before me.
18 I confess my iniquity;
I am sorry for my sin.
19 But my foes are vigorous, they are mighty,
and many are those who hate me wrongfully.
20 Those who render me evil for good
accuse me because I follow after good.

21 Do not forsake me, O Lord!
O my God, be not far from me!
22 Make haste to help me,
O Lord, my salvation!

Herkimer’s efforts were not in vain. So although the Americans suffered tremendous loss, they did detain Brant’s group from getting to Fort Stanwix in Rome, where British General St. Leger was laying seige. Because of the failure of the British to gain ground in Fort Stanwix and in Oriskany, as well as some other typical British blunders, Burgoyne’s Three-Pronged-Attack on Albany collapsed. Burgoyne was captured in Saratoga. When the French heard of this American victory, they decided to aid our cause, and sent money, ships, and troops our way (most notably, to Yorktown). We can see the importance of this small battle today, but back then in the heat of things, it must have been hard to endure the loss. We are ever grateful that they hung on.

At the Battlefield site, we visited a small visitor’s center. The last time we visited, in 2004, the center was closed, so this was a real treat to finally go in.

This flag perked us up!

Outside the center was the coolest car I’d ever seen. A hybrid!! We quietly snuck in it for a quick photo.

It was fun to explore the area, fun to run down the trails and imagine life back then. But all the while the cloud of sobriety hangs above, reminding us that this little battle was more than just a little battle. These valiant men were fighting not for land or wealth, but for an idea: the right to live free and the right to our inalienable rights endowed by our Creator. These men weren’t blindly struggling, as so many pawns do in war (“the sport of kings”). These guys knew what they were fighting for, and they did it for posterity– for us!

Great Places: The Nicolas Herkimer Home

It’s been years since we were out to Little Falls, NY, to see the lovely Nicolas Herkimer Historic site. This was the place where I first caught the travel-history bug: my classmates and I went on a field trip here in 7th grade. It was a spectacular visit. I’ve taken the kids here twice since, but that was probably five years ago now. Gosh, it’s time we paid another visit soon!

Nicolas Herchhcimer (now known as Herkimer) was born in 1715, son of German Palatine immigrants who fled to Upstate New York for religious freedom and economic opportunity. (My husband’s ancestors were numbered with this group, as well.) We’d visited one of the stone churches in the area, attended by Nicolas’ parents; you can read that here. Nicolas built his Georgian-style brick home in 1764, after the French and Indian War. Back then, much of New York State was severe wilderness, and settlers usually clustered their homes near a fort– a barricaded wooden structure where the people could find protection during Indian raids and/or times of war. Herkimer became one of the wealthiest and influential men of the Mohawk Valley, and was in charge of the small militia guarding the fort.

When the American Revolution erupted in New York in 1777, he was commissioned to come to the aid of the army at Fort Stanwix in Rome, NY (see our visit here). The Americans there were under attack by a British army in a “three-pronged” attack; this was Plan A in the British effort to cut New York State off from New England and the South. What transpired for Herkimer on that long day of marching his civilian army of Patriots forty miles through deep forests ended in what we now called the Bloodiest Battle of the American Revolution, in Oriskany, NY (see our visit about this here). Herkimer and his army never made it to Fort Stanwix. They were cut down in a surprise attack by Mohawk Indians and American Loyalists. Brothers and cousins were fighting against each other. A monument at Oriskany lists the Patriots and Loyalists, how many of these men were related. Can you imagine– slicing down your brother or your neighbor who had broken bread with you at weddings, who had attended your children’s baptisms? There’s much more detail about the struggles and the battle at my post here, when we visited the sites (which are not far from our own home).

The events of the battlefield unfolded the first few days of August 1777. Those summer days were typical Upstate New York days– so hot and humid that the forest literally steamed with heavy gasps of respiration. The American Patriots–led by General Nicolas Herkimer– and their noble allies, the Oneida Indians, were hurrying from Tryon County (Little Falls, NY, area) to Fort Stanwix (in what is now Rome, NY). They were coming to the aid of the fort [there], which was under siege by the British armies [from Canada]. [Herkimer's army's] march was a three-day, 40-mile slog through dense woods and swamps. By the time they reached this point in Oriskany, they were only six miles from Fort Stanwix. We could only imagine how laborious this trudge through the depths of the Mohawk Valley had been.

British General Johnny Burgoyne had warned the Americans about his battle tactics. He published a sweet little poem to strike fear righteous rebellion in our hearts:

“I will let loose the dogs of hell, Ten thousand Indians, who shall yell And foam and tear, and grin and roar, And drench their moccasins in gore: To these I’ll give full scope and play From Ticonderog to Florida…”

Sweet, huh? Back in Oriskany, on their march to Rome, the sweaty, exhausted Patriots stooped down to sip some cool water and wash their sweaty heads. It was at this moment, while the Americans’ backs were turned, that the Loyalists and Mohawk Indian allies attacked them. They had been waiting in the woods for them.

In the photo below, the infamous ravine is behind where the kids stand. A small stream still trickles there where Herkimer’s men were ambushed, although it was more densely forested then.

Losses were huge. The entire male populations of many towns were decimated. In the end, no one won this battle. But the Americans considered it a victory, because they had kept the enemy from besieging Fort Stanwix (the army there retreated after hearing about this battle).

Nicolas Herkimer was mortally wounded in battle. He was carted home, to die there from injuries sustained in battle and a very bad leg amputation. The Bible he requested before his death is in a large display case at the historic site, open to Psalm 38, his last words.

There are tours available through the home– which is very delightful for having such a sad ending to its builder. It’s truly a first-hand experience of life in the mid-18th century. There are many hands-on displays for the kids, including games, tools, and more. I loved the Dutch bed system, which is a cupboard with a bed in it, and a curtain to close the opening (perfect for icy New York winters). We toured the kitchen and barns and root cellar. Every year, there’s a spectacular celebration where life at the Herkimer farm is re-created. This year the event is on Sunday, October 5th.

There’s good information about Nicolas Herkimer here and here, his historic site here, and the battle of Oriskany here. Photo of Herkimer Home courtesy of Wikipedia.

Fort Stanwix, Rome, NY: Summer 2007

Have I ever mentioned that we absolutely adore Fort Stanwix? We’ve been there many times over the years. This is one of the greatest parks and historic sites I have ever visited, and everyone who works there is so friendly and knowledgeable. Plus, they keep updating and adding new things.

For a more detailed history of the fort, see this earlier post I’d written about the fort and the Visitors Center.

We visited in summer 2007 (we visit almost every year). This visit was relaxing and exploratory. It began with a lovely walk around the park, from the Marinus Willet Visitor Center and all around to the entrance of the fort.

On the walkways, there are large, informative plaques.

I let the kids wander wherever they desired. We are quite familiar with the grounds. Here’s an aerial view of the fort. Forts were built this way in New York State. Some forts date back to the French and Indian War, before 1754!

I love the skyline from the top of the fort’s embankments.

The boys like the bombproof– a place under the berms where stores and ammunitions are kept. It also served as a hospital during times of siege.

The girls and I like learning about life back then. Therefore, the quarters and bunk rooms interested us.

All around the fort, the rooms in the long wooden dwellings are open for exploration. They are filled with genuine and replica articles that were common for this time period and for military barracks during the Revolutionary War.

There is always something neat to play with at the fort.

At the fort, we got to sit in the theatre this time, to watch a movie. The park service has, in the past several years, produced some excellent films about the fort. We’ve seen ones on the Battle of Oriskany and another about the Oneidas’ contribution to the war. Today was another great film about life at the fort during times when fighting ceased. It portrayed a soldiers’ experiences at the fort during times of monotony between battles. We recognized many of the actors in the movie– employees of the fort who have been so informative and friendly during our visits.

We also enjoyed a instructive presentation about popular music during the fort’s heyday. The instructor was a very talented fife player and made the presentation fun!

Although our visit was briefer than other visits, we still loved seeing Fort Stanwix again! And no doubt, we will see it again this summer! Since they keep adding new things, I’m sure it will not fail to interest us. Hopefully, we can make it to a re-enactment this year!

A Little Reminder

I’ve been slowly building up my New York Travel Map which is a visually-aided archive of all our travels. We’ve been to dozens and dozens of places in New York State. Using my map is an easier way to sift through the archives. Of course, there is a handy search feature I’ve included in the sidebar, too. But I highly recommend you check out my map! I’ve been working on it zealously. Here’s quick rundown of the most popular posts I’ve just recently added:

Chittenango State park, Chittenango, NY: This was our summer visit to a lovely state park in Central New York. The waterfall here is stunning. See the photos for yourself! And the falls are home to the acclaimed Novisuccinea chittenangoensis. Yes, it’s true!

The Old Stone Fort in Schoharie, NY. It was a wonderful trip through beautiful eastern New York. The museum was terrific! It had everything under the sun, and then some! Our visit here was a real delight. This is one we plan to visit again.

Fort Ontario in Oswego, NY. This is a wonderfully restored fort on the eastern rim of one of NY’s Great Lakes. The lake is gorgeous. I tried to get in as much of it’s beauty with the photos, as I could.

The Old Main, or Utica Lunatic Asylum, in Utica, NY. The building is on the National Registry of Historic Houses. What a beautiful old building, now in great disrepair. It served as the nation’s first treatment center for mental illness, then later became a place for alcohol and drug rehabilitation. The place is brimming with architectural and local history.

Oriskany Battlefield Memorial Site, Oriskany, NY: Home to the bloodiest battle of the American Revolution. Our visit here was filled with moments of swelling patriotic pride, and great sadness as we realized the tragedy that occurred here.

Fort Stanwix, Rome, NY: This continues to be one of the most popular posts of the New York Traveler. We adore Fort Stanwix, and it shows! This fort has everything: interactive displays, reenactments, music, movies, museums, friendly park rangers, and a terrific gift shop. We go here at least every year, and discover something new each time.

I have all these travels archived in the New York Travel Map, plus more. I encourage you to check it out! and thanks!