The Old Main, or Utica Lunatic Asylum, NY

The Old Main is the local name for the original New York State Lunatic Asylum of Utica. It has had many names over its 150-year history: Utica Lunatic Asylum, Utica State Hospital, Utica Psychiatric Center. I didn’t travel out to the Old Main in Utica– not this time. I’ve been past the building a few times, and have walked the grounds when we visited an acquaintance of my husband’s, who was attending an alcohol treatment program there. That was fifteen years ago. I thought I had taken photographs then, as I was awestruck by the building’s architecture, but either I am wrong or I lost the photos. This is a “virtual visit.” Roger Luther has graciously granted permission to post his photos of the Old Main. For a multitude of awesome photos and a good summary of the Old Main’s history, check out Luther’s NYSAsylum.com. The photos are spectacular.

The building was open for patients in 1842, but is in terrible disrepair now. It is famous around the world for its architecture, and was home to many of the “firsts” in mental health in the nation. It was the first institute for the treatment of the mentally ill (previously, people had merely been confined). Remember the movie Jane Eyre? Orson Welles’ character kept his insane wife locked up in a tower. It wasn’t too uncommon for mentally ill and insane people to be locked up and the key thrown away. I personally think that a lot of mental illness came from the ingestion and absorption of lead, which was abundant in pipes, lining cisterns, in paints, etc.

The Old Main was the birthplace of the American Journal of Insanity by Dr. Amariah Brigham (this publication would later spawn the American Psychiatric Journal). Dr. Brigham changed the way mental illness was treated. He believed that most mental illness was caused by environmental problems (contaminated food or water, side effects of diseases) or mental strain (depression, stressful lifestyle). Unlike today’s physicians and Big Pharma, who are endlessly shoving pills down throats, Dr. Brigham believed that strenuous exercise, clean foods, and good hard work would cure most of the mentally ill. He was right, for most cases.

The architecture of the building is truly stunning:

[It] is internationally recognized as a monumental example of the Greek Revival architecture tradition… The huge size of the stone structure is perhaps its most significant feature; being 550 feet long and averaging 50 feet in depth. The projecting central portico is 120 feet long and is dominated by six limestone columns 48 feet high and eight feet in diameter at the base. “No European public edifice has a grander Greek Doric portico than that which dominates the tremendous four story front block….” architectural historian Henry Russell Hitchcock wrote in his definitive Architecture: Nineteenth and Twentieth Centuries.

The Utica building’s Greek Revival, doric columns (six of them) are eight feet in diameter at the base and 48 feet high. They are at the main entrance which also has a gray facade made of upstate New York limestone. Two four story main wings extend laterally from the entrance. Later construction added wings to either end, greatly increasing its capacity (parts of these additions have since been demolished). One estimate compared the asylum’s original square footage to that of a 26 story sky scraper. In the attic, visitors may still see murals and the stage of a patient’s theater; sunlight still floods the vacant day rooms downstairs.

In 1850, a listing of accommodations noted: 380 single rooms for patients, 24 for their attendants, 20 dormitories each accommodating from 5 to 12 persons, 16 parlors or day rooms, 12 dining rooms, 24 bathing rooms, 24 closets and 24 water closets. The mechanical systems of the original building incorporated the latest improvements. Hot air woodburning furnaces in the basement provided heat for the building. Ventilators opening from the rooms to flues in the walls allowed air to circulate constantly. Hot and cold running water was supplied to each floor, the cold water coming from the roof while the warm water was pumped by a steam engine from basement storage tanks.

Don’t these old romantic pictures make you feel like you are putting your loved one in a tender, safe place?

Those old Elm trees in the Utica area were so beautiful, weren’t they? Back then, even the asylums were built and kept up to be beautiful. But the truth is, the things that went on inside weren’t always beautiful. The Utica Crib was invented here. It was a combination cage and bed, to restrain the uncontrollable patients. The crib was sometimes suspended with chains and would rock the patient, to soothe him.

Critics called it savage even though some patients preferred it. It was removed from use in 1887.

There’s more history that runs down the Main’s halls. Famed abolitionist, U.S. Congressman, and Hamilton College alumni Gerrit Smith was admitted to the Old Main for over two months. The story is filled with speculation and intrigue! Smith (whose homestead we Mecombers hope to visit this spring when we go on our Heritage Freedom Trail trip) was a “Free-Soil” advocate, and an outspoken supporter of violent abolitionist John Brown. (We hope to visit John Brown’s historic site, also!) “They” say it was John Brown who started the Civil War.

To be associated with such a “vigilante” as John Brown was political suicide. After Brown’s failed raid on an arsenal at Harper’s Ferry, Virginia, and his hanging a few weeks later, Gerrit Smith was fingered for aiding and abetting Brown’s violent raid. Smith was promptly admitted to the Utica Lunatic Asylum (by his family). Some historians have speculated Smith was admitted to avoid his critics and investigations. Others, exposing more details of Smith’s illnesses (including a long bout of typhoid that contributed to his chronic health conditions), said Smith was genuinely distressed, having been depressed for a long time. They say it was the Harper’s Ferry incident that “broke the camel’s back.”

One source claimed:

“Gerrit Smith shows continued marks of insanity,” a New York journal reported later that month. “No one is allowed to see him, but it is understood that he refers in his ravings to the Harper’s Ferry matter, and supposes himself arrested.”

And another source has a longer and extremely interesting report of the history. You can find that at The “Black Dream” of Gerrit Smith, New York Abolitionist.” I found the information and story there riveting. Here’s a portion:

The New York Herald dispatched a special reporter to visit Smith at Peterboro in late October to obtain more information concerning the abolitionist’s ties to Brown and the Harpers Ferry raid. The only statement the reporter could get from Smith was this remark: “I am going to be indicted, sir, indicted! You must not talk to me about it. . . . If any man in the Union is taken, it will be me.” This reporter had covered Smith’s gubernatorial campaign the previous fall and made some very interesting comments upon the changes in Smith since that time.

Concerning the controversy which followed the raid, the reporter observed:

[It] has not only impaired his health, but is likely to seriously affect his excitable and illy-balanced mind. . . . His calm, dignified, impressive bearing has given place to a hasty, nervous agitation, as though some great fear was constantly before his imagination.

The Herald reporter concluded from his visit with Smith:

He is in evident alarm and agitation, inconsistent with the idea that his complicity with the plot is simply to the extent already made public. I believe that Brown’s visit to his house last spring was immediately connected with the insurrection, and that it is the knowledge that at any moment, either by the discovery of papers or the confession of accomplices, his connection with the affair may become exposed, that keeps Mr. Smith in constant excitement and fear.

The Herald account was only one of several reports of Smith’s increasing state of agitation in late October and early November. The Rochester Daily Express reported that Smith had been “constantly wringing his hands and bemoaning the fate of poor Brown” and that the abolitionist’s friends were “apprehensive that his reason would give way under the load of grief and anxiety. . . .” The Albany Argus related that a visitor to Smith’s home shortly after the time of the raid reported that “his eye was wild and his appearance haggard, and his motion spasmodic and uncertain, but unceasingly restless”. Smith’s sleep and eating habits became increasingly erratic. He was despondent and his family feared he might attempt suicide. He even talked of going to Virginia to share John Brown’s fate. Finally, on 7 November, friends and family members were able to persuade Smith to accompany them to the state asylum at Utica by assuring him that he was on his way to Virginia.

Back to the Old Main. After years of dwindling financial support and the construction of better buildings, it was closed in 1978. The Old Main is in great disrepair now.

Some of its old wings have been demolished. You can see that there are huge gashes in the walls, allowing moisture and critters to invade.

When I attended Utica’s Genesis Group meetings years ago, there was some discussion about what should be done with the Old Main. There were some who wanted a museum of mental illness (which I didn’t think would be a very attractive draw), others wanted a Revolutionary War museum housed there, since central New York is so rich in history of that era. And others suggested that the City of Utica move its main offices there. There was talk about trying to get some rich investor to pour his billions into the place, but I don’t think anything came of that.

Part of the building was renovated a few years ago, and these rooms house the Records Archive and Repository for the NYS Office of Mental Health. But I think restoring the entire building could never be accomplished by the city (or the state) alone.

Sometimes, these beautiful old buildings are too difficult to restore, and they outgrow their usefulness; although I’m not ruling out any miracles. For now, the Old Main still stands.

Photos courtesy Roger Luther at nysasylum.com. (Thanks, Roger!)

Madison County Historical Society, Oneida, NY

Almost two weeks ago, on a soggy, dreary day, the girls and I took a drive out to Oneida, NY, to see the Madison County Historical Society home. It was once the gracious home of the Higinbotham family of Oneida. The home was built in 1849, and remained in the family up until 1930s, when one of the daughters donated it to the Madison County Historical Society. So the house remains in near-pristine condition, with some of the original family heirlooms on display. I love houses like these: it’s like walking back in time, and you can really get an idea of how life was like 150 years ago in America!

The home was named “Cottage Lawn” by the mistress of the house, Eliza Randall Higinbotham, after the writings of A.J. Downings. The house is lovely. On first glance, it appears to be Gothic Revival, due to its pointed windows and doors and steeply-pitched roof. Architect Alexander Jackson Davis called it “English cottage style.” And it does have a lovely, cozy cottage feel to it. We’ve been to a lot of historic homes, and none were as “homey” and warm as this one. We could envision young children playing games in the parlor, with the smell of fresh bread and coffee coming from the kitchen.

The Higinbotham family were a family of philanthropists and socialites. They were close companions of Gerrit Smith, that famous New York abolitionist with his fascinating history (I wrote about him, here and here). His benevolent presence is felt throughout the house, as there are numerous portraits of him and his wife that hang in the rooms. And there is a unique sculpture of two intertwining hands, that of Smith and his wife. It was sculpted by a freed and grateful slave (Smith ran the Underground Railroad here in New York State). This sculpture was originally at the Smith’s home in Smithfield (we visited the site here). But the Smith home suffered a fire that destroyed the home– yet, this sculpture was saved. It sits on a marble fireplace mantel in the South Parlor of Cottage Lawn.

Oddly enough, Smith’s wife, Ann Carroll Fitzhugh Smith, was a relation to George Fitzhugh, a Virginian who wrote extensively in defense of slavery. Fitzhugh and Smith, friends and relatives, wrote frequently to each other about the slavery issue, among other things. But it is notable to mention that these two men from opposite spectrums of the slavery issue could even maintain a friendship, when the Civil War was a mere breath away.

Well, I’m getting ahead of myself here. But this area is so stock-full of history it is overwhelming at times! Read more

Travel Wanna-dos

With spring right around the corner (as I ignore the falling snow and blustery winds out my window), we’re gearing up for another season of outdoor activity. The kids and I are hoping to go on an extended “Freedom Trail” trip, with drives out to historic sites and museums pertaining to the abolition of slavery movement and the Underground Railroad. Upstate New Yorkers were the movers and shakers of the abolition movement, Charles Finney’s explosive revivals spawning a social movement unsurpassed in American history since the Revolution of 1776. There are numerous Underground Railroad stations in Upstate New York, including several in my local community and one just down my street.

Anyone know why it was called the Underground Railroad? Take a guess?

It was called such because of the use of code phrases, to hide the slaves and their escape routes from the authorities. Definitely sounds like a New York plan. Here are some of the code words, in case you didn’t know. Notice the obvious religious undertones.

Baggage: Escaping slaves

Bundles of wood: Fugitives to be expected
Canaan : Canada
Freedom Train: The Underground Railroad
Gospel Train: The Underground Railroad
Heaven or Promised land: Canada

Load of Potatoes: Escaping slaves hidden under the farm produce in a wagon
Moses: Harriet Tubman
Parcel: Fugitives to be expected
Preachers: leaders, speakers underground railroad
River Jordan: The Mississippi
Shepherds : people escorting slaves

Station : place of safety and temporary refuge, safe-house
Station Master: keeper of safe-house

“The wind blows from the South today”: A warning to Underground Railroad workers that fugitive slaves were in the area.

“Left foot, peg foot”: A visual clue for escapees left by an Underground Railroad worker famous because of his wooden leg.

“A friend with friends” – A password used to signal arrival of fugitives with Underground Railroad conductor.

“The friend of a friend sent me” – a password used by fugitives traveling alone to indicate they were sent by the Underground Railroad network.

“Steal away, steal away, steal away to Jesus” (words to a song) – used to alert other slaves that an escape attempt was coming up.

There is a lot to learn about the Freedom Trail. New York State has an entire section of its tourism devoted to it, from John Brown’s home in Elba, NY, to Harriet Tubman’s home in Auburn, NY, to the estates of abolitionists like Gerrit Smith. I’m still working on the plans, but it will be a designated itinerary that I expect will take us several months or longer.

A blogger friend in Syracuse also told me of a lovely Erie Canal Park in Camillus, NY (near Syracuse). It is an area devoted to the history of the famed Erie Canal of New York State, with a park-like setting. There’s plenty of space and rural recreation areas dedicated to dog-walking, exploring ruins, and strolling down its numerous paths. We love the outdoorsy-type activities, so this sounds like a very enjoyable early-spring day trip.

I can’t think of any other places we will be this season. The Freedom Trail will certainly consume most of our energies. We would like to take a trip out of state this summer (yes– out of New York State!), perhaps to Washington, DC, and Virginia, to visit some relatives (and stay with them for free, heh heh). All this is in the planning stage, as I also need a new kitchen this year. Stay tuned, adventures will continue!